R226 Gangways

Recently I won a second Triang R226 Maunsell GBL (Gangwayed Bogie Luggage) van on Ebay for my 1960s early morning Waterloo-Exeter newspaper train*. Now that I have two I could fabricate some gangway corridor connections. 

The method was described in my earlier posting for Bachmann bulleid coaches but for the GBL the roof is semi-circular instead of flat(ish). I was unsure if this apparent more rigid arrangement would cause interference on curves but as you can see here the two halves slide over each other nicely. The distance between the vans is unprototypical but I was not inclined to modify these vintage models. Having said that though I did fit flush windows, as described earlier. Altogether pleasing additions to these models.

* Whilst the GBL saw service throughout the 1960s I have since read that the South West Division newspaper trains used Bogie Van B rather than GBL. After 1962 GUVs were used. Also, at some time in the 1960s GBLs had their gangways removed.

DIY 4mm/00 people - Part 3

Making the torso from a solid block does not give sufficient control over the shape. Take small, thin slithers of clay and build up layers on the skeleton to form the torso. This is my top tip because it gives you greatest control in shaping the body. I found this part of the build quite relaxing and therapeutic.

The arms are made the same way. (If the arms were outstretched then make as legs). The legs are rods of clay that are pushed along the skeleton legs.

I should say something about the cooking heat and times:

Head Mould: 20 mins @ 150c
Head (cooked 3 times in all) 10mins ea. @ 150c.
Body with head: 10mins @ 150c

Painting was with Humbol matt enamels. It does a good job of covering scratches and blemishes.

To Part 1

DIY 4mm/00 people - Part 2

The first character from the prototype scene I wish to stage is a balding man. FIMO is the material used, which is a synthetic clay that is cooked in the oven to harden off the model created. For his head I use a commercial model of a monk and made a moulding of his balding head. The monk's head is dusted with talc. and pressed halfway into the material, removed, turned over and pressed again to give two impressions, front and back. After the mould is 'cooked' to harden it, dust the cavity with talc. Take a ball of FIMO, and press the ball into a cavity making sure it overlaps to form a flange. Ease the moulding out by pulling on the flange. Take a sharp knife and slice the moulding from the flange. Repeat for the other half of the head.

FIMO in its uncooked state is extremely mailable. Great care is needed to minimise distortion of the head moulding when handling. The plus side is that if there are defects some judicious prodding can correct. Because its easy to distort I cooked the two halves to harden before making the body. When hardened, the two halves are 'glued' together using a slither of FIMO and the assembly cooked again to fix. The wire skeleton is constructed. A small hole is drilled into the neck and the wire inserted. Notice that the monk has puffy cheeks. I smoothed these out a bit on the moulded head and enhanced the eyes, nose and mouth using a piece of wire. Unfortunately, the result has a frightening persona, someone I would not like to meet on a dark night! Fortunately though, the head is only 4mm tall.

To Part 3 .