GBL BoB - Part 6

I fell headlong into the Brunswich Green trap for a BR(S) period livery.

The GBL BoB lining, number, nameplate and shield were removed by rubbing white toothpaste over them with an old tooth brush. This was a tip from RMWEB which recommended toothpaste as it does not have a chemical composition that could damage the underlying plastic. The toothpaste is effective but also removed the paint finish revealing the black plastic beneath, which was unaffected showing no scratch marks from the rubbing.

The body work was sprayed with Halfords grey primer and then Brunswich Green (Humbrol #3) after which I thought the green looked too bright compared to photographs of the prototype. (I know paint matching to photos is a big no, no). I started to research further and found that Brunswich Green is a misnomer for what should be called BR(S) Dark Green. A couple of model paint manufacturers supply the 'correct' green but I was not sure these were definitive for BR(S) locomotives of the late 1950s early 1960s. Furthermore, some commentators recommend a lighter shade than the correct green because of the effect of light diffusion on normal model viewing distances of 25 - 75 yards in 4mm scale. I looked at my loco stock from Hornby, G.R. Wren and Mainline and they all had different shades of green for the same period and even different shades across Hornby locomotive classes! I realised I had entered the minefield of paint matching. I decided to mix my own paint to achieve a shade somewhere between the dark Hornby green and lighter Wren green. The Mainline colour was far too light.

My mix was made from what I had available, Humbrol brunswich green 3 (gloss), green 30 (matt) and gloss black Interestingly, the mixing of gloss and matt gives a silk finish like the finish of proprietary models.

The first spraying looked OK in natural light but appeared too light in artificial light and of course whilst still wet is darker than when dry. Very difficult to get right but further refinement of the mix gave a finish that fared better in natural and artificial light and sat well between the Hornby and Wren paint finishes. However, in full sun it takes on a lighter shade! (I'll live with that). I can't give the paint proportions as it was trial and error.

Some detailing has been added. The pipework below the cab was made from soldered copper wire and replaced the GBL modelled pipework, which was totally incorrect for this side of the cab in the photo. Vacuum pipes, steps and screwlink coupling added to front buffer beam.

More to do - details and lining etc.

To Part 7

To Part 1