A Model Railway - Life in Miniature

February Website Cover +

2012-02-01T00:15:00.001-08:00

This month's cover features two scenes at Hewish Gates. One of them depicts a rather effective rain storm approaching from the west. An effect that was not contrived, it was to do with the way the light bounced off a warped backscene! The onsite model railway directory has been expanded this month to cover some favourite resources. More here.

I'm aware not much is happening on this blog. Lucky if there is more than one posting a month just now. The problem is I have declined to spend time in a cold and inhospitable railway room in winter. So, my activities tend to break from the norm and mainly take place during spring, summer and autumn. The first job I'll be doing is to finish laying weathered trackwork at Hewish Gates (about 6 feet to go) and then I'll probably re-photograph the scenes to replace those currently on my website.

Nevertheless new readers of this blog should find plenty of interest here if you trawl through the archives - links in right hand column.

Modelling actvities are not completely abandoned. I'm helping my son build his 'n' gauge model railway, which happily sits on a desk in a warm and cosy spare bedroom. When I sit back, look at it and think about its size if it was 00 gauge (twice as big) then I appreciate what 'n' gauge can do for modellers who want a substantial layout but only have a small space for it. More here.

DIY Polystyrene Hot Wire Cutter

2012-01-12T04:43:00.000-08:00

There is something strangely satisfying about cutting polystyrene blocks with a hot wire. There are a number of advantages over other cutting methods. Complex shapes can be cut more easily, quietly and without mess. Just have to be aware of toxic fumes that can arise!

There are several guides and videos on the web on how to make your own cutter and I was exited to discover that the power source can be a car battery charger, which most of us have tucked away in the garage. I also read that a steel guitar string can be used as the cutter. Both items I had available but needed to find something that could be the yoke without much fabrication being necessary. After searching my store of artifacts I saw a length of flexible plastic curtain rail. Now this variety is supplied rolled and the spare piece I found still exhibited the curvature of the roll. Is'nt it great when you find something that is screaming out to be used for a different purpose you have in mind.

The guitar string (E 1st) was looped at both ends and held with nut and bolt to the ends of the curtain rail. The string is held taught by the springy curtain rail - and that is all there is to it. The battery charger I have was clipped onto the bolts and set for 6V motorcycle mode. The wire gets hot enough to melt the polystyrene but not hot enough to melt the plastic curtain rail.

In the picture I have used the baseboard of a new 'n' gauge project as a work bench and the wire of the cutter overhangs the edge. The yoke is resting on some insulating foam so that the electrics don't come into contact with the railway track. Polystyrene to cut is simply offered up to the wire and carefully pushed through it, which requires no force whatsoever.

Why do I need to cut polystyrene? Well, it is the foundation of the landscape for the new railway. The contours of the land can be formed quickly and easily with poystyrene blocks.

2011 Poll Results

2011-12-30T01:36:00.000-08:00

Is doctoring a model railway photograph acceptable?

This is a subject that raises comment from time to time and professional publishers in particular seem to fret about how far they should go in enhancing the photo with artistic embellishments. I can recall instances in the 'Railway Modeller' where on one cover Peter Denny was shown alongside his Leighton Buzzard layout with the surrounding railway room crudely cut out of the photo. On another, Christmas edition, the cover picture showed a layout with snow applied over the photo by an artistic hand. It looked very effective but, did not exist in reality.

During 2011 I ran a poll on this blog to find out what my readers think about it. Here are the results.

Is it OK to hide non-model stuff in view?

35% of votes (the majority) felt this was quite acceptable. When we look at a model photo, especially of a layout set in an historical context, we want to think that it is like the real thing and not have our illusion destroyed by seeing the surrounding clutter and fittings of the railway room. Layouts that are set out in an attic environment are especially prone to this problem as often the rafters are in view just a few inches above the far side of the baseboard.

It is no bad thing if we replace non model stuff in view with a photographic back scene that blends with the foreground model.

Have a look at Ashprington Road to see what I mean.

Is it OK to add engine smoke effects?

26% of votes said 'yes'. Sometimes, for the prototype when the engine is coasting, there may be no steam and smoke billowing out. But it is more often than not present so, why should we not enhance our model train with this effect? It all adds to the atmosphere we want to portray.

Whatever takes your fancy

21% don't mind what you do to your model photo.

Never

16% expect to see your model photographed as it really is, warts and all.

Is it OK to 'air bush' the photo to enhance the look of the model?

2% voted for this, suggesting that this is a step too far.

This poll may not be very scientific and the votes were small in number so please don't take it too seriously.

Famous Photo Spot Ruined

2011-11-13T04:42:00.000-08:00

Battledown Flyover - the gateway to the west, is a popular spot for railway photography.

Hitherto a rickety, rusty low fence overgrown with vegetation separated the railway from the public footpath. Selective spots along it exhibited vegetation trampled down or cut back by the many photographers who have chosen this area next to the old fence for their locomotive shoots.

It was possible to quite easily set up a shot of Southampton bound trains and long shots were possible from within the adjoining field.

Now this is the scene that greets us. The London Southampton line is the lower level totally obscured. New fencing on both sides of a newly laid cycle & foot path means only trains on the higher flyover track can be snapped without obstruction. Very few photographers carried a step ladder to aid their setup in the past. It is now an essential tool to raise yourself above the level of the 6 foot fence.

This is the view of the Exeter - Waterloo line that passes under the flyover. No opportunity here to photograph trains storming out from under the flyover.

I question whether it is worth photographing trains on the flyover at all now with this fence and a cell phone mast dominating.

Still, the refurbished path is now a lovely, civilised route for walkers and cyclists, created with health & safety in mind. Only thing is the Council forgot the rubbish bins. Dropped litter is already taking hold.

N Gauge Resurrection - Cliddesden

2011-10-14T05:25:00.000-07:00

Here is a recently acquired Dapol LSWR M7 locomotive - a real joy to behold for its fine details. For those not familiar with the size of 'n' gauge it is shown below a UK 10 pence coin.

It is destined for a yet to be built model of Cliddesden station. An 02 tank was desired, to be authentic for the Basingstoke to Alton Light Railway, but this is the closest r.t.r model available. Same wheel arrangement and similar features but a good deal longer at 36' 2" against 30' 8" for the 02.

The LSWR livery covers the period of the line from its inception in 1901 to first closure in 1916. The line reopened in 1924 to finally close in 1936. For this latter period a Southern livery locomotive is needed.

There was little traffic on the line and only an 02 locomotive was used to haul the single passenger coach and freight, disregarding a brief period when a H12 Railmotor conveyed passengers.

To increase variety for the model railway it would be nice to be able to run two M7s, one of each livery for the two periods.

The development of this model railway is covered by a separate blog here.

Farnham 37th Model Railway Expo.

2011-10-09T08:05:00.000-07:00

Visited this expo. today with my son who has unexpectedly re-discovered an interest in 'n' gauge railway modelling. He had a layout as a child (built by dad but never completely finished). Now an adult it is the history of our local light railway - the Basingstoke to Alton (deceased) that inspired his renewed interest and a model of Cliddesden is being considered. So, a visit to the show was in order to see what could be achieved in 'n' gauge.

And what an eye opener it was. The standard and detail of modelling on show across all gauges was exceptional and in 'n' gauge the owners had achieved a level of modelled detail that I thought was impractical. The photo here is of Totnes (GWR) a layout just 3m x 1.7m where the railway snakes through a landscape of great depth both length and width. A railway with depth is the real advantage of 'n' gauge over the larger scales for small spaces and it seems detail need not be compromised. I'm showing Totnes because it was the largest but even the smaller 'n' layouts such as Wansbeck Road and Framsden exhibited fine detailing.

Trackwork Part 8 - Postscript

2011-10-07T00:17:00.000-07:00

Picking up on a statement in the first posting of this series I can show here the mix of flat bottom and bullhead rail that was so typical of the prototype in the 1960s.

The upper track is the Down Main fitted with flat bottom rail. It is Peco code 75 with sleepers spaced out and weathered as described in this posting series.

The lower track is a passing loop/siding fitted with bullhead rail. It is made from C&L 3 bolt chairs on EM Society plywood sleepers.

The work involved in enhancing track work like this is very time consuming. I still have about 14 feet of track to prepare and replace on this side of the layout alone. Aesthetically it is a vast improvement on r.t.r track but, for the lone modeller with limited time or patience it is probably best suited to small/micro layouts. I am in two minds about doing the same exercise on the other side of the layout, which has about 36 feet of track work. Only time will tell.

To Part 1

Southern Concrete PW Hut

2011-09-13T10:24:00.000-07:00

Fuelled with success from my Water Tower cardboard modelling project I tackled something a little simpler - the classic permanent way concrete hut.

Introduced in about 1946 and extant today, albeit mostly abandoned and vandalised.

I paid a visit to my local PW hut and photographed its current state. The photos were scaled down in photo editing software and used as the decoration layer for the paper/card kit components that I designed. This includes graffiti inside and out, windows void of glass and the door missing. The finish is a pretty close replica of the real hut, closer than could be achieved by painting a model.

On the face of it a simple structure to model except at this scale (4mm:1ft) cutting the windows and fabricating the chimney were a challenge. The chimney in particular I'm proud of as I love devising a construction method that simplifies assembly. It is only 5mm square and 8mm tall. The chimney decorative paper layer is one piece that is wrapped around a stack of 6 x 0.75mm thick card. A single slab is placed above the vents for the cap and the top flap of the decorative layer folded onto it. Yes, those are open vents at the top and not painted on.

From time to time the question pops up ' What is the colour of concrete'? I don't think there is a simple answer. It is influenced by the lighting conditions and absorbtion/reflective effects of the weathered material. My perception upon viewing the real hut on a bright cloudy day without direct sunlight was the mid-beige you see in the photo above. But when I photographed it from different elevations and angles relative to the sun position the camera gave me everything from light beige to dark grey! Interestingly my model seems to take on the same shade changes in differing lighting conditions.

LSWR Water Tower - Open Tank

2011-08-23T12:50:00.000-07:00

Forgive me - I'm getting obsessed with this water tank. But I wanted to share this development.

Have you ever wanted to make something authentic and spent hours researching on the Internet and in books to find some small detail. Every photo you come across either does not show it or the view is not close enough. That's the case I had trying to see inside an open top railway water tower tank. Yes, I know there is water but would you have considered the ballcock valve, water level gauge and bracing of the tank walls let alone foot boards and what style of ladder? I still don't have all the answers for this specific style of tank but I found enough for a reasonable stab at what the details may have looked like

What you see here is the MK2 tank. My original model had the top enclosed in 'metal', since I guessed from a distant view in a photo that was the case. But, asking around and studying a few more photos it seems where a roof was not installed on an LSWR tank then it would have been open to the elements.

Now that poses a more challenging thing to model than a metal lid.

Water

A nice water graphic reflecting a blue sky with a transparent film slapped over to give sparkle.

Bracing

I had not considered this until seeing photos of the Settle water tank. Most models you'll see don't bother with it but it is an essential feature to stop the weight of water bowing the tank sides. Here it finishes the model off to a treat. There may have been more panel bracing under water.

Water Level Gauge

Known as a 'pulley and chain' type. What a fascinating piece of archaic engineering. So simple and yet so effective. A chain is attached to a float in the water, passed over a pulley wheel to drop down over the side of the tank with a level indicator board behind. On the end is a pointer. The float with chain move up and down as the water level changes. So, a full tank is when the pointer is at the bottom and empty tank when it is at the top. Interesting thought - the float has to be heavier than the chain yet light enough not to sink.

This close up photo is in fact not close enough to show the chain, made from two lengths of 0.2mm wire tightly twisted together. The end has been formed into a pointer, which is just visible at the 6 foot mark. Can't see the float either, which is hidden behind the tank wall.

I shall make a ballcock valve. Not sure whether to do foot boards and the ladder is conventional without any guard rails. A plastic signal ladder is ideal for this.

To Part 1

LSWR Water Tower - Salisbury

2011-08-21T07:08:00.000-07:00

The tank of the Salisbury water tower was the basis for the tank that I made for my Crewkerne water tower model, being identical style as far as I can determine.

The Salisbury tank is an extremely rare survivor from the LSWR that can still be seen today. This particularly style (with embossed elongated roundel on each panel segment) appeared at several stations along the main line, sometimes with extended height and with or without a curved or pitched roof. (The Salisbury tank originally had a pitched roof).

Salisbury LSWR water tower is believed to have been erected in 1868 and has been unused since the 1960s. It is located in an inaccessible place next to the main line yet prominently visible from nearby public places; a car park to the south and housing estate to the north.

At the end of 2010 the Swanage Railway Trust obtained permission to dismantle the tower and re-erect it on the preserved Swanage Railway. Recently they have secured funding for the works. Sometime within the next couple of years it will be gone from Salisbury. So, if you want to see it at its original location and snap a photograph then visit now.

To Part 5

To Part 1

LSWR Water Tower - Finishing Touches

2011-08-08T11:16:00.000-07:00

Having shuffled the station building along to join its garden the water tower was located in the allocated space between the bridge embankment and station building.

The finishing landscape touches are to fill a small embankment void left by the station building and to make and fit walls and doors each end of the alley way.

My eye is drawn to the windows in the water tower. Regrettably, ink jet printing of the glass frames has not worked very well. I'll need to review that method to see if I can bolden them as they are far too insignificant. They are BR(S) building cream in colour embossed with black to give depth and show up best if looking head on to the windows or with a white background behind.

The embankment void is filled with polystyrene carved to fit, painted green and covered with some long grass (jute carpet underlay) that was salvaged from the wasteland rework.

Great fun ensued making the walls and doors for the alley way in the same manner as the water tower (cardboard modelling). Using photographs of real, weathered doors and walls and manipulating them in graphic editing software produces a much more realistic finish than emulating them artistically, simply because they are the real thing reduced in size. Flat finishes are to be avoided. The trick is to use layers of paper and card to give relief. The only thing missing is relief of the brickwork itself to represent the mortar layers. However, even this can be emulated if you are willing to lay individual paper bricks. For an easier life, embossed styrene has the edge over cardboard modelling in this respect. You can see the difference in the photo as the bridge is made with embossed styrene sheet.

I'm not in favour of one technology over the other. Each has their merits and some of my models have been created with a mix of wood, styrene and card. The pleasure comes from making out of something plain and flat a pretty, 3 dimensional object that is based on reality.

To Part 1

LSWR Water Tower - Making Space For It.

2011-08-07T04:11:00.000-07:00

Having sized up the needed space for the water tower, about 12 foot of the station master's garden had to be sacrificed to make room. The previous garden area and some of the wasteland was stripped bare with a chisel, salvaging most of the contents for reuse. (In doing this I rediscovered the compost heap that was in a corner, hidden from normal view).

The Southern concrete panel fencing was re-instated first as this helps to set the position for the station building, which is butted to it. In this view large bolts are used to hold the panels vertical whilst the PVA glue sets.

Next a spot of gardening. There is no better material to represent nature than nature itself. That is not to say it is the only material I use, far from it. But, wherever possible I use real flora - end of season, dead, stiff and brown.

We have two rows of carnations grown for decorating the waiting room and to provide button holes for staff. 1960s is probably a bit late for this kind of touch but I like the thought. The stems are dead pine needles split down the middle, grouped, dabbed into PVA glue and placed in position. Aquilegia seeds are applied as flower heads - any seed will do and to be honest I'm not convinced it is necessary. Anyway, place a blob of PVA in your palm, sprinkle on the seeds, mix up well with a finger and wipe the finger along the top of the pine needles to deposit the seeds in a random fashion. When dry paint appropriately.

Next we have the obligatory cabbages and runner beans that most model railways seem to have. The cabbages are the base of spent aquilegia seed pods that even have a stem and heart! The runner bean poles are painted galvanised wire with Woodland Scenic flock glued to them to represent runner beans.

This is the view from the back door. Two concrete pillars in the lawn hold a washing line and a long pole props the line high to keep washing off the ground. The grass is flock paper. Beyond the fence is a small tree made from yarrow. Its seed pod 'leaves' have been supplemented with a small amount of Woodland Scenics spread over.

The shrubs next to the fence are very small clumps of lichen with a little Woodland Scenics flock covering.

To Part 3.

To Part 1.

LSWR Water Tower

2011-08-05T05:50:00.000-07:00

About 30 years ago I drew up plans for Crewkerne Station Building and Water Tower, scaled from my own photographic survey of the buildings. Construction of the model station building was soon underway, made from eighth inch hardboard and card but, I never got around to making the water tower - until last week.

The water tower is London and South Western railway architecture in the Gothic style, probably designed by Sir William Tite who definitely designed the station building. The actual water tower had the tank removed many years ago to be replaced by a pitched roof. I wanted to re-instate the tank for the model and whilst photos of this tower and similar ones abound none that I found show the top of the tank as it was originally built. Photographs from the 1900s show no roof over the tank but whether it was open or fully enclosed metal is unknown. So, I have opted for full enclosure until new information comes to light. Something else that is also unknown at this time is the fittings for the Crewkerne tower, i.e. pipe work, ladders, pumps?

This exact style of LSWR water tower in 4mm scale is not available from the trade, as far as I know. It was the realisation that with a computer, colour ink jet printer and a plethora of graphics readily available I could quickly and easily design and make a cardboard kit for it. Well, quickly - no and easily - no but, it has been a joy to create. I think because all the resources for it were readily available from my desk and the quality of precision graphic printing has resulted in a finely detailed model.

You may discern from the photo that there is some nice relief built into the walls and doors. This accurately mimics the prototype. The interior is fully decorated and I have left the tank a dry fit so that I can remove it to apply internal fittings to the tower later. The window matrices are transparent film with individual window frames printed on.

The kit comprises 58 parts (decorative panels plus templates for the backing card) spread across 6x A4 sheets and whilst none of them are fiddly, carefully handling and forming was required.

Now the problem arises where to put it since my model railway is essentially finished.

To the right of the Station Master's garden is some waste land. It would just fit there but the actual location on the prototype is between the bridge embankment and station building. So, let's have some fun and shuffle everything along to make room. Much of the garden will spread into the wasteland and perhaps become smaller.

This then dear reader is the start of a new Posting series.

To Part 2.

August Website Cover

2011-08-01T01:06:00.000-07:00

Picks up on recent efforts to cosmetically enhance r-t-r track. The website cover displays a huge close up picture of the flat bottom rail track bed at Hewish Gates and supports my article onsite about improving the look of Peco turnouts.

I'm well aware that most of the techniques I have deployed have been around for a long time but for me it was a first attempt. Work on this part of the layout is ongoing and bullhead rail is being applied to Hewish Sidings. This mix of rail types is typical of the 1960s prototype on the Southern Region in the west.

Blog postings start here.

A Goods Shed for Hewish Sidings

2011-07-27T10:40:00.000-07:00

I have been following Chris Heath's blog - Wynyard Lane (link in my blog list) and got caught up in his excitement about Scalescenes model buildings. He has certainly done a good job in promoting that product range.

So I popped into Scalescenes and picked up this Little rustic goods shed for Hewish Sidings. Not quite enough room in this area of the model railway for it but I am upgrading the trackwork and might be able to open up a bit more space.

Well, I have made up card kits before from one of the long standing manufacturers but the finished item tended to look like, well flimsy card. Scalescenes though have got it right and their product is robust and an innovation for the computer age.

It is supplied in the form of a downloadable pdf document that we print, paste onto 1mm card (for 4mm scale) and cut out the pieces to glue together. The instructions are crystal clear, even though I made a few silly mistakes due to lack of concentration on my part. No matter; just print out another sheet and remake the parts I screwed up!

What makes the kits winners is the attention to detail given by the designer. The models include signage, interior decor and this one a working slide door! Also, a lot of thought has gone into hiding the bare edges of the card.

I must pop back and buy a kit since this one is given away free to trial.

The Basingstoke & Alton Light Railway

2011-07-23T05:27:00.000-07:00

This short lived line (35 years) is famous for being the location used in the films 'Oh Mr. Porter' and 'The Wrecker'. The latter being co-written by Arnold Ridley, who also played Private Godfrey in the BBC series Dad's Army.

Much of the route today has been obliterated but there are a few stretches open to walkers and the line is commemorated with a short stretch of track laid on the old route in the middle of a road roundabout. Nearby is the information plaque shown above.

And so it came to pass that I undertook my first walk along this disused railway line, a half mile stretch near Winslade.

The walk begins with a climb up the embankment near Bridge No.5, which was demolished long ago. What is left is obscured with vegetation. The only signs that this path was a railway is the wide and level walkway bordered by embankment or cutting, both of which are heavily wooded.

At the end is Bridge No.6, which is still intact and appears in good condition.

Upon returning home I pulled out my copy of the book "The Basingstoke And Alton Light Railway" (ISBN 0-9534197-0-3), which I had not read since 2008. (I remember that year because this book was one of the catalysts that renewed my railway modelling interest). I was amazed to see in the book a photograph of this very bridge under construction in the late 1800s; amazed because I had not set out to find that bridge and I had photographed it from virtually the same angle as the 1800s photo.

In the 1800s photo the brick portal is built but the embankments are in progress with workmen all around. Temporary wooden decking above the portal carried the track used by constructor's engine and wagons.

Trackwork - Part 7

2011-07-07T01:21:00.001-07:00

Making your own ballast has the same satisfaction that a gardener gains from making their own compost!

You may not be able to use my technique as most of the material was given to me so, I do not know of a commercial source.

I started off many years ago using grey (or pink?) cat litter, ground down or sieved to a fine grade. I would not recommend cat litter now because the granules tend to fall apart when wet. But, remnants still show up in my ballast because my mix is reusable from layout to layout. (Read on and you'll find the special glue that holds the ballast stable yet allows it to be lifted and re-used). Subsequently I was given a bag of decorative grey (granite?) chips use by the building trade. The granules are a few millimetres across. These were crushed in an old coffee grinder and sieved with a fine mesh tea strainer to remove the dust (which is used for tarmac road surfaces) and then sieved (with a 1 millimetre mesh used for car body repairs) to create scale 3" ballast rocks.

Cork granules were sieved and added to the mix in small quantities. The grey chips predominate and the cork adds a little colour variation.

The magic glue is wallpaper paste flakes that are crushed and sieved with a tea strainer with the resulting 'dust' added to the mix. Can't really say what proportions are used - it's all guess work.

Some prototype track work has dark ballast between the sleepers where trains have deposited oil and muck so, a second mix is made up comprising the granite chips, black carbon granules from a face mask filter and dark brown dyed sawdust (Peco scatter material). The photo above shows this variation.

The ballast is then laid and water mixed with a little washing up liquid (to reduce surface tension) is sprayed to thoroughly soak the material. It takes a couple of days to dry by natural evaporation and leaves a stable surface that will withstand light vacuuming but will crumble to pieces if scrapped with a screwdriver. Hence it can be broken up for reuse.

To Part 8

To Part 1

Trackwork - Part 6

2011-07-06T10:44:00.001-07:00

Spot the Peco difference.

Click the image for a larger view.

Now, it's not a fair comparison of these Peco tracks because the straights of the Code 100 are in fact Graham Farish Formoway, which in my opinion has more authentic sleeper dimensions than standard Peco track. Unfortunately, it is no longer marketed.

The code 75 track has smaller rail profile and is generally preferred by modellers as being more authentic. I enhanced the standard Peco offering by opening out the sleeper spacing of the straights, removed the large spring retaining block in the turnout and weathered all, as described in Parts 1-5 of this series. The Code 100 turnouts are Peco small radius and the Code 75 Peco medium radius. Did you spot the cosmetic 4 bolt fishplates?

Two colours of ballast were used on Code 75, light coloured on the track bed and dark coloured between the sleepers to represent oil and muck dropped by trains.

To Part 1

To Part 7

Van B or not Van B That is the Question

2011-07-02T01:08:00.000-07:00

First built in 1937 and still in use up until 1986 these Bogie Van Bs conveyed luggage, newspapers and mail on the 'Southern'. Despite its longevity and common appearance on the network (130 were built) it has yet to appear as a ready-to-run model in 4mm scale (not to be confused with the Hornby Van C). The only source I am aware of is the Ratio kit, now marketed by Peco.

The best photo of the prototype I found on the web is this one and since my model is to be a 1960s newspaper van on the west of England route then I could not hope for a better picture to use as a reference as it shows crisp, close up details and roof destination boards for this route, (though quite why the van is at Canterbury West is a mystery to me).

On opening the kit of parts we find a plethora of finely detailed parts to assembly. One look at the brass fret reveals parts so small (The door T handles are about a millimetre long) that it will fill many with horror at the thought of handling them without loss. It is for this reason I believe that many people pack it away to assemble another day and years later retrieve it from the bottom drawer or attic to sell on, since they come up on Ebay now and then.

You may be impressed by the extent of thought gone into the kit design. However, minute parts such as door handles and hinges should have been designed into the plastic door mould tool and the doors themselves integrated with the van sides. This would make it a simpler and more enjoyable assembly, and possibly cheaper (Currently retails for about £20). Did I mention the tiny dynamo is assembled from 4 individual parts and the tiny periscope from five! Perhaps there are ardent kit builders who derive pleasure from such challenges/frustrations. Not me I have to say. I just want a Van B.

Despite a multitude of details supplied there are some notable exceptions. The brass wire, which is required for the periscope window wiper and battery box tie bars, is too short - supplement this by using the staple fasteners from the packaging. There are no window bars, which are an obvious feature of the prototype - created mine in graphic editing software and printed on transparent film, and the water slide transfers are not expansive enough to represent later period vans.

I'm sorry this is not a happier account. On the plus side if you do manage to build it without loosing tiny parts to the carpet abyss then you will feel a sense of achievement and have a finely detailed model to admire. Just watch you don't knock the grab handles off (again).

One van is not enough for a newspaper train. Would I buy more of this kit? Only if I get a good deal. But, if a r-t-r model from the major manufacturers appears then that would be first choice.

Trackwork - Part 5

2011-06-22T12:06:00.000-07:00

Now turning to the straights and studying these threads I increased sleeper spacing of Peco Streamline to 8.8mm and was staggered at the improvement in appearance just 1.8mm makes! I doubt I'll ever lay Peco track again without making this simple adjustment.

I am replacing code 100 track with weathered code 75 on an already landscaped railway. In this case it is easier to paint the 75 track off layout but how to do this for curved flexi track? One of the issues is that painting is likely to 'fix' the rail to the sleeper making it impossible to bend straight track into a curve.

The photo shows a painting jig for this situation. First, a paper template is made to the length and curvature required. This is placed on a length of chipboard with the straight track laid on top. Starting at one end a track pin is lightly hammered in beside the inner rail (not through a sleeper) to restrain the track as the curve is gradually formed adding further pins every fourth sleeper. A few pins are needed alongside the outer rail to stop spring-back.

Each sleeper, which is independent of the others, is adjusted during the curve formation to maintain the 8.8mm spacing and square to the rails.

Paint mask the top of the rails and rail ends and it is ready for painting.

To Part 1

To Part 6

Trackwork - Part 4

2011-05-29T11:41:00.000-07:00

Painting was quite a challenge in that I had to visit 3 model and craft shops to get the two cans of Humbrol matt paint I was after!

The top rail surface was masked with strips of insulation tape before spraying grey car primer all over. Then the rails were sprayed and drinking straws slit and placed over them to mask before spraying the sleepers.

After reading other modeller's recommendations and studying several photos of the prototype I decided on Humbrol 62 for the rails and 160 mixed with a little black for the sleepers. The sleepers are slightly lighter than the Peco plastic and of course not shiny. They do look more like grimy wooden sleepers than the bare Peco plastic. Other colours would be suitable because the variations in the prototype are significant, dependent on age and location of the track. My selection is suitable for the main line, which is where they are to be placed.

I had some Colin Waite 4 bolt cosmetic fishplates left over from previous modelling so they have been applied to the rail ends, as seen in the photo, together with Peco rail joiners.

To Part 5

To Part 1

To my How To.. step by step guide.

Trackwork - Part 3

2011-05-21T10:39:00.000-07:00

My objectives in improving the look of the Peco Code 75 turnout can be summarised as follows:

Infill the missing sleeper portions
Eliminate the large block
Cover holes in sleepers and tiebar
Retain finger operation of turnout switch, i.e. the Peco sprung locking mechanism
Retain Peco point motor fixing points and control
And this is the big one - be able to easily retrofit the original mechanics without recourse to glue etc. This is just a safeguard in case it all went belly up and if I ever sell the turnout it's a nice thought that I can rebuild it pretty much back to the original.

To remind you of the offending parts of the turnout:
And here is the modified turnout that meets all the stated objectives. The new parts I added are unpainted so you can see them. Once the turnout is painted in track and rail colours plus some highlighting it will all blend very well.

There are special methods used in this conversion that aid the retrofit of the original mechanics. It just so happens that they also make the conversion straightforward and a delight to undertake.

To Part 4.

To Part 1.

To my How To.. step by step guide.

Trackwork - Part 2

2011-05-20T08:58:00.000-07:00

With reference to the last posting in this series the results of the track test are:

1) No shorting experienced using old or new rolling stock. Looks like Peco have got the switch blade gap just right in this respect.
2) The wheel flanges of some Lima and old Triang stock just skim the chair tops causing a rat-tat-tat sound. But, the stock does not rock, bounce or derail.

I shall accept the risk and not rewire the turnouts until proved otherwise. I will probably re-wheel the offending stock to finescale.

Now I'll turn to the cosmetics of the Peco turnout. These two pictures show the prototype. The first with an electrical point motor and the second with manual rodding. The crank arrangement on the latter varies depending on the installation.

And this is the Peco turnout with the offending bits pointed out. It was designed this way for ease of manufacture, maintenance and compatibility with their point motors. But it doesn't look like the prototype does it?
Probably the best looking improvement is the sledge hammer approach taken by DCC Concepts Pty Ltd. as shown in their Cobalt Motor manual page 17 (pdf) . Trouble is, my turnouts are finger operated so I want to retain the Peco switch blade locking mechanism and the complete tiebar whilst eliminating the block and tidying up the sleepers.

To Part 3

To Part 1

Trackwork - For The Average Enthusiast

2011-05-19T06:45:00.000-07:00

I have decided to take a fresh look at my track work with a view to replacing it for something a little more appealing and better performance.

Currently my turnouts are 00 Peco code 100 small radius insulfrog and the straights are Graham Farish 00 Code 100 Formoway (The latter no longer marketed).

Let me start by saying that previously I was a finescale modeller in EM for many years using hand built code 75 turnouts with C&L chairs and SMP Scaleway code 75 straights. I am therefore, very familiar with the code 75 v 100 debate. If any EM/P4 modellers have started reading this then you might turn away now. What follows may interest the average enthusiast.

My backward(?) step to 00 and code 100 was purely because I could not face converting to EM the finely detailed r.t.r steam locomotives that have come on the market in recent years. My use of code 100 was because I had bountiful stock from even earlier modelling activities.

The main issue I have with my present track work is that the small radius turnouts tend to encourage derailments. I really should move up to medium points at the least and consider moving to code 75 for authenticity.

First thing to consider is the prototype. In the first half of the sixties a mix of flat bottom and bullhead rail in 60' lengths was in use on BR(S). On the main line at Crewkerne flat bottom rail was in use but anywhere along the main line you could find a mix of both. Sidings were still in bullhead and turnouts remained in bullhead due to the high cost of replacement. At this time wooden sleepers were the norm.

For model track my first decision is to use r-t-r turnouts, as I see no benefit in making these for 00 gauge when the track gauge is so unprototypical. Disregarding 'toy' track the r-t-r- options are either Tillig or Peco. Neither products are accurate to UK prototype. Tillig being for overseas networks and Peco - well the sleeper spacing and size is wrong, the chairs unrealistic, has cosmetic mechanics around the tie bar that bear no resemblance to the prototype and it's flat bottom! This just goes to show that compromise is necessary, which for the 00 gauge modeller (who is already living with an inaccurate track gauge) should not be an issue.

I bought myself a Peco code 75 turnout for trials. Sit this alongside a code 100 and the difference is (remarkably) not that significant. I whole heartily agree with the findings from this research. It's mainly the wide flat bottom of code 100 that makes it look too bulky when viewed from above. This is where code 75 has an extra advantage since it's narrower flat bottom is not far off the desired bullhead in appearance.

The Peco code 75 has much finer and tidier appearance than code 100 around the frog (i.e. the V) because there are no breaks in the rail, which brings us to the major technical difference. The frog and switch blades are electrified throughout. This means the locomotive has consistent power feed throughout its journey through the turnout and as a consequence trouble free running at slow speeds. The downside is course-scale metal wheels may cause momentary shorting through the switch blade. For command and control systems this event would result in fail safe cut out of power and possibly longer term damage. Peco have made provision in the design for the User to rewire the turnout and circumnavigate the shorting issue, but this also requires an electrical switch that is mechanically connected to the switch blade movement. I'd like to avoid that if possible so my next step is to set up a live test and run all my stock through.

By the way, point operation is currently by means of a finger rather than remote control and this shall probably prevail.

To Part 2

ExpoEM 2011 - A pilgrimage

2011-05-15T06:08:00.000-07:00

It was possible to miss a model layout at this years show (except Mostyn - massive at 24' x 30' with 34 fiddle yard tracks!) because most of the stands were either trade sales or EM gauge demonstrations. This is to be expected due to the specialism of EM gauge. But, tucked away in a centre isle was the layout I came to see - Leighton Buzzard (Linslade) by Peter Denny (deceased).

Denny's modelling was an inspiration to many modellers of a certain age and greying hair, like myself. So, it was a privilege to see one of his working layouts in its entirety. This particular layout design dates from the early 1970s, although much of the rolling stock and buildings are older - The station building dating from 1951, for example!

Now, you need to view this layout in the context of its great age and remember that nearly everything was scratch built by Denny. The build and detail of his models stand up extremely well alongside current modelling technology and methods. If you have to point a finger at anything then you might suggest his method of creating model vegetation (lichen trees and dyed sawdust grass?) could do with an overhaul. But, I doubt that will happen if the objective of the new owner is to preserve the model in its historical context.

Anyone who has read Denny will know that he was an innovative modeller. Who can remember his wooden 'piano key' style point lever frame. Well there it was - still in use with the wood now totally discoloured from years of human finger activity, like a well worn book.

The display was supported by a lecture given by The 'Grandborough Signalman' who introduced some aspects of Denny's modelling masterpiece and life interspersed with a few anecdotes. Even Denny's two sons were on hand to fill in the knowledge gaps.

I do hope the layout will be exhibited again. It needs to be seen by modellers who should pay homage to the work of the great man upstairs who inspired their own efforts.

Screw Link Couplings

2011-05-08T10:32:00.000-07:00

In a previous posting I noted that my 4mm scale Merchant Navy Pacific loco lacked a chain link coupling and vacuum pipe. That is now corrected and this posting is about how it was done.

Forgive the crudity of the item in the photo. It is very, very small in reality and hardly visible when fitted to the loco. Why bother at all might you ask - well making this appeals to my creative nature and it makes my Hornby loco look even more authentic than it already is.

The method of construction was based on the 'How to' at Southern E-Group. I had to modify the screw link part of the build because the Merchant Navy coupling has an extra half chain link. If you read the Southern E-Group method together with this photo then I think it should be clear what I did. Note that the extra half link is on the left of the screw and a tight loop is used at the other end to hold a full size chain link.

The missing right hand vacuum pipe was lifted from my spares box. With a bit of judicious cutting this particular pipe both looked like the Merchant navy pipe and facilitated holding the chain end for storage. On the prototype there appears to be a hook or something down there to hold the chain.

Furthermore, care was needed to clear a boss that sticks out on the front of the bogie chassis. I could have filed it down but fortunately the vacuum pipe is forward enough to hold the chain out of the way.

Perhaps I should say that the coupling is a cosmetic addition, not functional.

I painted the coupling in-situ, otherwise the paint may have clogged up the linkage making it difficult to manoeuvre into position. The Hornby supplied hook already had provision to hold a chain, which makes me wonder if the manufacturer fits one and it was missing from my purchase.

ACE Reporting Number

2011-04-08T13:03:00.000-07:00

This came about after I watched Jim Clemens 'The Withered Arm' for the fourth time. The narrator (his son Michael) made the briefest of comments that the ACE loco in view was showing the number 6, the reporting number allocated to the 'down' ACE. His comment from earlier viewings did not register with me so armed with this new information, well new to me, I browsed my railway books that I have scoured many times before and there in the ACE photos was the number 6, which had also previously escaped me. On another photo I discovered the 'up' ACE used the reporting number 7.

Now, I knew about reporting numbers, (They were read by signallers in particular to identify a specific train service and route the train correctly, mostly used on busy or congested routes) but I had not considered their use on the ACE, which with its massive name board could not be easily mistaken.

The number for the model was printed on a sticky label using 'Arial Narrow' font size 8, a close approximation to the prototype.

Having now taken this close up photo of my Hornby model I can see that a vacuum pipe has dropped off and the coupling linkage is a glaring omission. Those wheels could do with a clean up too.

April Website Cover

2011-04-01T00:03:00.000-07:00

This month's website cover features the Surbiton to Okehampton Car Carrier. Inside the website there is a page about the train formation.

This named train does not get as much coverage as the ACE. Information on the web and in books is somewhat fragmented but I have been able to pull together a little data.

The train carried holiday makers and their cars from the London suburbs to Devon. Unheard of nowadays for motoring in Southern England, which makes this train all the more fascinating.

Book a Bargain

2011-03-26T10:29:00.000-07:00

I have been researching the Surbiton-Okehampton car carrier with a view to recreating this unusual and short lived train. This will be featured on my model railway website very soon.

During my research I was directed to the book 'Southern Branch Lines' by Martin Welch, which has a colour photo of the carriages at Okehampton. I was not inclined to buy the book just for one photo. But, this all changed upon visiting my local Garden Centre!

Like most large garden centres they stock much more than garden stuff these days and it is not unusual to find a bargain book stall there, quite often with a few generalised railway books. I was amazed to see there on the shelf the above named book. A single copy of this specialised publication marked up at less than half price!

Well, I thumbed the pages to find the photo of interest. I could have made a mental note of the details in the photo and left the book on the shelf but this 120 page book is filled with rare, high quality printed colour photos of scenes on Southern Branch lines from Kent to Cornwall, a god send for modellers who want coloured photo references so, I bought it.

Two points of note here. Firstly, be amazed at what you can find at your garden centre and secondly being able to browse a book in a shop before deciding to purchase beats what the Internet shops offer and yes, the book I bought was within a few pence of the Internet's best price.

Do it now! (Blog Backup)

2011-03-18T07:33:00.000-07:00

In one of my blogs there is some key data that I needed to look up. It made me think how I would recover my postings if blogspot failed - like fotopic did recently.

Two methods.

1. http://yourblog.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default?max-results=100

Visit your blog using the above URL with the results parameter set to the number you want to backup and 'yourblog' set to your blog name. From your Browser page menu 'Save as..' to your hard drive. This saves the XML file, which can be opened in your Browser.

2. Download the 'Blogger Backup' utility here http://bloggerbackup.codeplex.com/releases/view/12201

Install on your PC. The utility gives more control over the back up. Can include comments for example.

These will not save images locally. But you'll have images you uploaded stored on your PC anyway.

What you end up with is an XML file which has a load of 'tags' in amongst your text. Either you'll need an XML reader to make sense of it or you can copy and paste all the content into this utility http://www.nicertutor.com/xml.cgi to remove the tags and then copy and paste that into your word processor.

Geez, anyone know an easier way?

Important:

For either method, in your Blog 'Settings' for 'Site Feed' set the 'Full' parameter otherwise you will only get part of each posting.

BNHMS expo review

2011-03-12T05:20:00.000-08:00

Just returned from the BNHMS model railway show, which runs until 4pm tomorrow. The exhibition is spread over 5 large school rooms interconnected by a rabbit warren of corridors. I completely missed one of the rooms at last years show because of this, despite having a floor plan to hand. This year I made sure I found everything.

Trade stands were in abundance, especially RTR stock and kits. It only lacks the more specialist traders seen at shows like expoEM. I'm in the process of changing my Lima Mk1 coaches for the finely detailed Bachmann versions and managed to pick up a new MK1 SO in BR Green at a bargain price. Especially pleased about this as Bachmann themselves are currently out of stock!

As for the model railway exhibits there was a wide range of gauges, countries and historical periods on show. As a southern fan and partial to finely detailed landscapes the layout I most wanted to see was Rowlands Castle and it did not disappoint. Wartime Britain with military activities much in evidence. Finely detailed landscaping with military models including soldiers in various poses undertaking military manoeuvres.

Very few layouts were well lit and styled for display. Most were open with backscenes not much in evidence. One that stood out for public display was the EM layout 'Cornwallis Yard', viewed through its black proscenium arch with intense stage lighting. At each end the railway tracks exit stage with an unlandscaped, wide, circular sweep meeting at the rear open fiddle yard. To some extent they unfortunately dwarf the scenic model - more scope for landscaping there I feel.

The most surprising layout was the gauge 3 'Warton Road'. Not often do we see such large scale (half inch to the foot) for a table top layout!

Take a Length of Copper Wire

2011-03-06T10:03:00.000-08:00

The platform seat on the right in photo. is a fair representation of an LSWR 9' bench commonly seen on stations throughout the Southern Region of BR in the 1960s.

The 4mm scale model was fabricated from thin copper wire hammered flat, each piece carefully formed with thin nosed pliers and soldered.

Holding it in a vice as each piece was added acted as a heat sink so that previously soldered parts were less inclined to desolder and fall off.

5 slats for the seat and three for the backrest with the topmost being deeper than the others. I feel that the front to back depth of the seat should be another mil. or two deeper.

Whilst I made this seat myself from tinned copper wire, you can buy an etched brass kit from this supplier.

The seat in front is an oddity. It can be seen in photos of Crewkerene Station from the 1950s to - well I photographed Crewkerne in the 1970s and it was still there! 5 slats for the base and 1 for the backrest. No arm rests and a less elaborate sub frame.

Retro Magazine Cover

2011-03-01T00:30:00.000-08:00

Modelling a historical period requires research and for me it has gone beyond the railway fence. I found myself studying early 60s clothes fashion when I set about making 4mm scale people and I looked into graphic railway poster design when I created my version of an 'Atlantic Coast Express' advertising poster of the period. My model railway website is styled in the form of a paper magazine so for March 2011 I changed the cover to reflect magazines of the late 50s, early 60s. My survey of model railway magazine covers was very disappointing. They seem to have completely ignored modern art trends of the time, being just a title and monochrome photo on a white or coloured background. Other hobiest magazines like woodworking or mechanics used artistic illustrations of the subject and it is this that I have mimicked for my website cover.

R226 Gangways

2011-01-25T12:17:00.000-08:00

Recently I won a second Triang R226 Maunsell GBL (Gangwayed Bogie Luggage) van on Ebay for my 1960s early morning Waterloo-Exeter newspaper train*.

Now that I have two I could fabricate some gangway corridor connections. The method was described in my earlier posting for Bachmann bulleid coaches but for the GBL the roof is semi-circular instead of flat(ish). I was unsure if this apparent more rigid arrangement would cause interference on curves but as you can see here the two halves slide over each other nicely.

The distance between the vans is unprototypical but I was not inclined to modify these vintage models. Having said that though I did fit flush windows, as described earlier.

Altogether pleasing additions to these models.

* Whilst the GBL saw service throughout the 1960s I have since read that the South West Division newspaper trains used Bogie Van B rather than GBL. After 1962 GUVs were used. Also, at some time in the 1960s GBLs had their gangways removed.

3D Movie Experiments

2011-01-22T12:02:00.000-08:00

Ever seen a 3D movie camera? Here's one - It's got two eyes.

I was helping my son who works in the broadcast equipment manufacturing industry. They needed some 3D footage for testing the latest 3D broadcast systems.

I have yet to see the results because it's so advanced special software is needed to show it on a a computer. When/if I can view the file I'll add it to my movie portfolio. So, make sure you have anaglyph glasses at the ready.

For the Videographers out there it's a Panasonic AG-3DA1, all £15,500 worth.

For the Railway Modellers it's a SECR N class type 2-6-0 ("mogul") steam locomotive designed in 1914 by Richard Maunsell. Here in BR black with late crest.

Another Tree

2011-01-16T05:20:00.000-08:00

My model railway does not really need another tree but having harvested the raw materials (Yarrow) back in the autumn and with nothing else to make on the railway for now my fingers were itching to make something.

It's not as good looking as some of my other creations, except the trunk has taken on a nice shape. The other hedging and shrubs here are 'Woodland Scenics' matting. I don't use this for large trees because the Yarrow (being natural flora) provides a more realistic branch structure than twisted wire generally used by modellers.

It never fails to amaze me how good model photography can be an illusion of the actual scene. The view is at the extreme (London) end of the model railway and does not receive much attention by visitors. Immediately to the right the land drops vertically showing the polystyrene sub structure of the hill. The grass at the front falls steeply forming one side of the railway cutting. The other side of the cutting does not exist as it is the baseboard edge. To the left, over the hedge, is a gentle grass slope down to a railway siding. The canopy of a tall tree on the slope is just visible above the hedge. The backscene has been temporarily placed for the photograph. It is normally a plain blue wall.

New Movie - Atlantic Coast Express

2010-10-31T07:11:00.000-07:00

I have published a short movie of my 00 gauge Atlantic Coast Express. It can be seen on my model railway website. (Click the image to navigate to the Movie Page).

This movie is the culmination of an 18 month project recreating the ACE to run on my model railway - and what a joy it is for me to watch, nay drive, as it journeys through the west country. Hope you enjoy it too.

My postings about this project appear in the two ACE archives on the right of this page.

Bittern at Overton - Step Back in Time

2010-10-30T07:26:00.000-07:00

It was nice to see A4 Bittern close up at Overton today as it stopped to take on water. Last time I saw it was on The Watercress Line last year.

The 10 minute stop afforded time to snap many photos. This makes a change from my usual lineside photography where the train comes and goes within seconds. A couple more formal photos appear on the 'Live Steam' page of my model railway website. (link top right). But, I liked this shot with a mother and children in front of the engine. (I've no idea what attracted their attention).

On leaving the station I came across this delightful Austin 7 in the car park. What with Bittern as well it was like stepping back in time! That's my pillar box Tardis in the background!

DIY 4mm/00 People Part 5 (fini)

2010-10-17T11:04:00.000-07:00

And here are the final three for my scene. A word that came to mind when I was making these was 'ridiculous'. Why was I spending time trying to make something so small when there are perfectly good examples from the trade. At some points in the construction, as the clay took on a mind of its own, I nearly gave up. I certainly have a greater appreciation for 4mm modellers who create the originals for mass production, if this is how it is done.

I have used Airfix model people hitherto and the detail is much crisper than my efforts. But, one thing about those Airfix people is they seem to be a bit under size. I have checked my efforts against a rule and compared them proportionally to the full size people in the photographed scene I am staging and they look about right and as a result actually look better on the model railway than the Airfix models.

The point of all this was to stage a scene on my model railway that is shown in a photograph of the real thing. Now, I can't show you the real scene due to copyright restrictions so you'll have to take my word that this photo of my model is a fair representation of Plate 2 in the book South West Railwayman by Donald King.

To Part 1

DIY 4mm/00 people - Part 4

2010-10-15T12:03:00.000-07:00

Here is the middle aged wife for the balding man in Part 2&3 of this series. I used the monk's head from the mould as I did not have any other suitable. Since the monk is bald it allows me to fashion a hair style. Slithers of FIMO were laid on the scalp for the hair and the face proded about to vary the features.

I'm showing very close up pictures here. On the model railway at normal viewing distances I hope that defects and ugliness will be less noticeable!

My model railway is set in the first half of the 1960s. Who would have thought that in making this model I would find myself learning about period fashion. The lady is wearing a typical "1950s blush pink shirt style dress". 1950s lady fashion spilled over into the 1960s. Mini-skirts did not come on the scene until the second half of the decade.

To Part 5

To Part 1

DIY 4mm/00 people - Part 3

2010-10-14T03:03:00.000-07:00

Making the torso from a solid block does not give sufficient control over the shape. Take small, thin slithers of clay and build up layers on the skeleton to form the torso. This is my top tip because it gives you greatest control in shaping the body. I found this part of the build quite relaxing and therapeutic.

The arms are made the same way. (If the arms were outstretched then make as legs). The legs are rods of clay that are pushed along the skeleton legs.

I should say something about the cooking heat and times:

Head Mould: 20 mins @ 150c
Head (cooked 3 times in all) 10mins ea. @ 150c.
Body with head: 10mins @ 150c

Painting was with Humbol matt enamels. It does a good job of covering scratches and blemishes.

Now I'm off to make his wife and then a suited man and two young ladies in 50s/early60s frocks.

To Part 4

To Part 1

DIY 4mm/00 people - Part 2

2010-10-13T08:53:00.000-07:00

The first character from the prototype scene I wish to stage is a balding man.

FIMO is the material used, which is a synthetic clay that is cooked in the oven to harden off the model created.

For his head I use a commercial model of a monk and made a moulding of his balding head. The monk's head is dusted with talc. and pressed halfway into the material, removed, turned over and pressed again to give two impressions, front and back.

After the mould is 'cooked' to harden it, dust the cavity with talc. Take a ball of FIMO, and press the ball into a cavity making sure it overlaps to form a flange.

Ease the moulding out by pulling on the flange. Take a sharp knife and slice the moulding from the flange. Repeat for the other half of the head.

FIMO in its uncooked state is extremely mailable. Great care is needed to minimise distortion of the head moulding when handling. The plus side is that if there are defects some judicious prodding can correct. Because its easy to distort I cooked the two halves to harden before making the body. When hardened, the two halves are 'glued' together using a slither of FIMO and the assembly cooked again to fix.

The wire skeleton is constructed.

A small hole is drilled into the neck and the wire inserted.

Notice that the monk has puffy cheeks. I smoothed these out a bit on the moulded head and enhanced the eyes, nose and mouth using a piece of wire. Unfortunately, the result has a frightening persona, someone I would not like to meet on a dark night! Fortunately though, the head is only 4mm tall.

To Part 3

To Part 1

DIY 4mm/00 people

2010-10-11T08:38:00.000-07:00

I get great pleasure from photographing my model railway by staging a scene in a photograph of the prototype. The next one I have in mind is of a train waiting in the platform with a few passengers on the platform, some seeing off their friends or relations.

I have scoured the web for commercially available little people and found a couple that could do for some of them. But, there are others for which commercial models do not fit well either because of fashion/period or their stance. So, I need to consider creating my own little people.

There seems to be three methods open to me.

1) 3D printing is a very exiting technology and going to be very big for manufacturing at home. There are two systems (MakerBot and RepRap Mendel) that fall into the category of 'Open Source Hardware'. What this means is that the system design is publicly available and the parts can be obtained individually from a variety of suppliers or, as a complete kit for DIY assembly.

Our little people have to be built in 3D design software, like the free Google SketchUp, and the resulting STL file loaded into the 3D printer. The actual model is made in open air on an XYZ platform using ABS plastic that is melted and ejected from a nozel.

The Open Source DIY systems means the cost is well under £1,000. Unlike commercially available printers that run into 5 figures.

But this is not yet for me because the outlay is still too much to risk when I have not seen how good the design output and build quality of 4mm scale people is.

2) Moulding requires making a model in clay or something mailable like soap and creating a mould from it which is then used to produce robust replicas in resin or whitemetal. I think I saw a start up whitemetal moulding kit for about £40. This is ok if we want to create duplicates to sell, for example.

3) Modelling is about making the little people individually from a clay material like FIMO. Here is a link to a How To.. This approach is very low cost, a few pence per person. The tricky bit it seems to me is creating the head with facial features. I have an idea how to achieve that.

I'm going to attempt 3).

To Part 2

A Close Shave?

2010-10-01T07:37:00.000-07:00

I was feeling pretty confident that I would be able to complete my ACE train by purchasing the last two Bulleid brakes (34-504A) for it before Christmas. After all, they kept coming up on Ebay and the Bachmann site indicated new stocks were arriving in August/September (having supplied the market with a long awaited batch a little earlier). No need to rush a purchase then.

To my horror, when I checked the Bachmann site again in September they had been flagged as out of stock with no forecast of availability. They never did arrive in August/September.

I had already bought out the local model shop stock and so, turned to Ebay. But, only one (trade) seller was active and his 'buy it now' price was top wack. I was in danger of having to pay a premium price as the stock in the market place evaporated.

Now, I had heard about Hattons of Liverpool being one of the largest model railway shops in the UK. I visited their website and found they had listed more than 10 in stock! And a nice little side comment to boost confidence saying "Are they really in stock. Yes". I have never bought from Hattons before but decided I had to give them a try and fuelled on by the fact their pricing was very attractive/competitive I placed my online order.

Their communication was brilliant, sending me emails about order progress. Firstly an order acknowledgement, then another when my card was charged and finally when it was packed. The coaches arrived safely 8 days from when I placed the order.

Putting together my ACE has taken quite a long time. It started in April 2009 with the purchase of a Merchant Navy loco. Then followed research into the history of the train and my first blog posting appeared in June 2009. You can track my progression in the two ACE archives (links right).

One for Narrow Gauge Fans (OO9)

2010-09-12T10:11:00.000-07:00

Here is Emmet on the Hayling Island miniature railway, a 2ft gauge, 1 mile tourist line with 3 stations on the beach front of Hayling Island.

Plenty of scope and interest here for a micro layout, or something larger. The main terminus boasts 5 tracks. The station complex includes a covered platform and track with run round loop and 3 road engine shed cum workshop.

The complex is butted up against a permanent fairground attraction, which could be modelled in part or shown in a backscene. The close proximity to the beach is another feature that could be incorporated. Run the trains to and from a fiddle yard.

Another idea is to make it end to end. The other terminus has a single platform with run round loop. The short distance between the two on a small layout could be broken by modelling the coast guard station and army cadet building. Both are significant tall buildings straddling the middle of the line. The train is hidden by these as it passess between. There are several access roads cross the line. If one of these with all its signage was included it would provide added interest - and then there are the ubiquitous, multi-coloured beach huts that are a must have.

I'm tempted!

A Good Year for Yarrow

2010-08-28T03:32:00.000-07:00

Back in the summer I noticed a few sprigs of the wild Yarrow flower growing in my front lawn. They appeared naturally without any planting by me.

Yarrow is the key component of the model trees I make for my model railway. So, I decided to leave the plants and see what happened. Well the few sprigs have turned into a field! much to the bemusement of my neighbours.

I have noticed that the countryside also abounds with them this year - a better display than last year.

It's not quite time to harvest but if you want a go at making trees checkout the step by step guide on my website.

ACE Plymouth Coach

2010-08-23T12:11:00.000-07:00

Most of my recent railway stock is bought on Ebay, being funded from sales of items that I no longer need. And so it came to pass that having followed a Bulleid Brake coach for a week on Ebay I placed my bid last night and - lost. I usually bid below the shop price less postage and often win but these Bulleid coaches, especially the Brakes, are extremely popular. The Brake+postage went for just a couple of quid less than the recommended retail price. (I have seen them go for £10 more!) So, having to go to town today I popped in the model shop and picked one up. I paid the full price but at least I had the item instantly and did not have to worry about when and if I would receive an Ebay win.

There is a detailing kit supplied with the coach containing the solebar steps and an end door to close the gangway for a rear most carriage. I decided to make this the end coach, which is the Plymouth carriage on my Atlantic Coast Express. Worth noting that at busy summer periods the ACE comprised two (or more) separate trains, one with coaches for the 'Withered Arm' and one for the 'West Country' resorts. So, mine is destined for the 'Withered Arm' of Cornwall and west Devon. However, I can change the roof boards to run the other train that followed on behind.

A bit of customisation to the Bulleid coach is shown in the photos. The rear tail light is a Springside Models product with a jewelled red lens, which I nearly lost because it was not fixed and fell out of its pocket.

Roof boards are applied (Fabrication of these is described in a previous posting.) and this Bachmann Brake Second is turned into a Brake Composite with the addition of the '1' to the centre doors. With no yellow bar spanning the roof line of the 1st Class compartments we can say that this version of the train predates 1963.

Two more coaches needed to finish my ACE, hopefully I'll buy before the VAT rise in January.

Southern Region Head Code Discs in 4mm Scale

2010-08-22T05:58:00.000-07:00

Head code discs identfy the route of the train. One disc above the other signifies a Waterloo-Exeter mainline train. Sometimes a 3 digit number that identified a specific train service was stuck on.

I create the disc from 0.5mm, glossy white, plastic food packaging. Gloss to represent the enamel paint of the prototype. Hitherto the shape was formed using a single hole paper punch that was a christmas cracker novelty. I was always aware that my model was too big, in fact about 2mm (6 inches) too big (The prototype disc is 15 inches diameter) and the carry handle was never depicted.

All that is now put to rights. A two hole paper punch that I use in the office produces correct 5mm discs. Two 0.6mm holes about 2mm apart are drilled near the edge. The handle is formed from 0.25mm electrical tinned copper wire. The free ends are fed through the holes, looped over the top of the disc and fed back through the holes to form the hinge. It is held firm without the need for glueing.

I use double sided sticky tape to fix the disc so that it can be removed without damage to the engine. You might consider a permanent bond as it is easily knocked off.

I have seen photos showing the disc as per my model, with the handle stuck up in the air and a reverse arrangement where the handle lays against the rear of the disc. Some have the handle missing and a grab hole placed between the two handle holes instead.

4mm Scale Coach Gangways

2010-08-10T11:46:00.000-07:00

The more astute will notice from my previous posting about my ACE train that the photographs were taken from an angle that disguises the fact there were no gangways between the coaches. (A common situation on most model passenger trains.) I remembered that a guy on Ebay sells gangways he manufactures so I popped over to take a closer look. They look really neat but are advertised for use with Bachmann Mk1 coaches. Mine are Bulleid coaches so, with trepidation, I decided to have a go at making some myself.

Once I worked out the concertina design I discovered how easy and quick they were to make. I did not want to remove the dummy, short gangways from the Bachmann model and as it happens they serve to hold my gangway extensions in place without the need for adhesive.

The gangway extension was made in five parts from copier paper painted matt black. A piece of 3mm cork tile was cut to push-fit into the doorway aperture. The gangway extension is stuck to the cork. The assembly can be easily removed to preserve the original model.

The gap may be wider than prototypical but I wanted to retain the standard Bachmann hook and bar coupling for easy detachment.

Two gangways are needed, one for each coach. They slide across each other as the coaches move through track curves and crossovers. This second picture shows the concertina effect working on a 800mm curve. There is no degradation of coach perfomance because of the sliding and concertina action.

They really do enhance the appearance of the train. Don't know why I had not made them before.

Model Atlantic Coast Express Train

2010-08-08T08:45:00.000-07:00

Below is a 'flash' slide show of my 'Atlantic Coast Express' train that I am putting together. So far I have the locomotive, the first four carriages and the restaurant/buffet two carriage set. I still need to acquire the Padstow, Bude and Plymouth carriages to complete the train in its shortest form.

The loco is by Hornby, Carriages by Bachmann, except the Restaurant and Buffet set are Comet Models kits built by myself. There has been a misadventure with the carriage colours. Bachmann produced batches advertised as 'BR (SR) Green' and yet they are different shades! (not to be confused with malachite, an earlier light green livery). My painting of the Restaurant set used Phoenix Precision Paints BR (S) Coach Green, which matches the darker Bachmann shade seen on the Torrington carriage below. Did BR use two different shades of Green after they abandoned malachite?

By the way, The Torrington carriage I converted from BSK to BCK simply by adding the first class '1' to a carriage door. (BSK is all second class corridor whereas BCK is 1st & 2nd corridor.) I expect the BCK had more to it than that but the external style looks close enough for me. Actually, I think the Bachmann Brakes are the BSO Arrangement (second open), but that's all that is available 'off the shelf'. Are you confused yet?

Another Go at ACE Coach Roof Boards

2010-08-06T08:56:00.000-07:00

The objective is to create ACE coach roof destination boards that are portable, thus enabling the boards to be removed so that the coaches can be re-deployed for other train formations.

My previous method looked good but with a small sticky area had the tendency to peel with changes in ambient temperature. I also think the stickiness would wear away with use.

My latest method uses roof saddles to hold the boards in place without the need for adhesive. The boards are made as previously described except the label covers the entire backing plastic.

We need transparent saddles to disguise their presence. Take a 1 litre 'High Juice' drink plastic bottle - mine came from Lydl. The curvature is almost the same as the Backmann 00 Bulleid coach roof. Slice through the bottle to extract a ring. Cut from the ring two strips 34mm long and a few mm wide. Using pliers bend the ends to an angle of about 60 degrees and about 3mm long. These are tabs to which the roof board is glued. This plastic takes bends very well.

Place masking tape across the roof width alongside the boards end brackets. (This is to protect the roof from the glueing process). Place the saddles and hold down with more masking tape.

Offer up and hold a roof board against the bent tabs and carefully wipe some liquid plastic glue with a brush into the joins. Repeat for the other side. When set, gently remove the masking tape from the saddles and lift off the assembly. Remove the tape from the coach roof.

The assembly fits snuggly on the roof with the angle of the board looking correct. The whole assembly is quick to apply and remove indefinately. The plastic saddles are glossy which tends to reflect light giving their presence away. Might be an idea to paint them the same colour as the roof.

Peter Denny Video

2010-08-04T09:43:00.000-07:00

Fans of the famous railway modeller Peter Denny will know that he passed away in December 2009 aged 92. He was a great inspiration for my own modelling activity. I followed his articles in 'Railway Modeller' magazine and bought his 1972 book 'Buckingham Great Central'. On a recent visit to Expo EM I had the unexpected privilege to see a small diorama he built that was displayed on the Pendon stand. The realistic detail of the scratch built model surpassed my expectation because old black and white photos of his work does not really give the models justice. If his model railway is as good as this then whoever takes it over will be blessed with a wonderful scene.

Today, I came across a news item from BBC Cornwall that included a video in which Peter Denny himself relaid his thoughts on the subject and described some aspects of his model.

Invalid Car 4mm Scale Model - Part 4

2010-07-15T05:35:00.000-07:00

Paul Bartlett's photo (ref. part 3) posed a dilemma for me. It shows a pre-1963 car with side mounted indicator lights. Cars from at least 1964 onwards had the indicators integrated into a cluster with the brake lights on the rear. Which should I model since I don't know the year they changed the design? The location of Paul's photo is unknown, may not even be the Southern. I opted for the later period since I have photos of the cars ready for dispatch at Broad Clyst in 1964. Unfortunately, the 1962 photo of the train conveying the car is too distant to show its details. (ref.part 1).

So, here is the finished item, all trussed up ready for transportation.

Fittings:

Headlights: Bodged fence post from an old Airfix kit.
Front indicators: 0.6mm wire
Door handles: 0.6mm wire
Rear light cluster: material as headlights.
Petrol cap: mushroom vent from a coach kit
Number plates: black paper - too small to add registration details
Wing mirrors: dressmaking pins with a bulbous end that is filed flat(ish)
Exhaust Silencer: cocktail stick

The window glass was particularly tricky to cut and fit. I declined to fabricate the single windscreen wiper, which would have to be a hair at this scale!

Now to add the truck to the freight train. Photo should appear on my website soon. (link top right)

To first posting in this series

Invalid Car 4mm Scale Model - Part 3

2010-07-14T00:01:00.000-07:00

When I started this project I could not find a photo of the real car rear end. Thinking laterally, knowing that I would be placing this model on a lowfit wagon, I popped over to Paul Bartlett's wagon page on the (very) off chance he might have a lowfit with an invalid car load.

Imagine my amazement when I saw his first photo in the series was this exact AC invalid car on a lowfit and showing the rear end! Further more the retaining method of car to wagon is clearly visible. So I'll be modelling that as well. Isn't the Internet a wonderful research tool.

Unfortunately, I cut the rear window aperture before seeing the photo - it is a little too high. The wheels were reclaimed from an old Triang Minix car and super glued into slots carved into the base.

Not finished yet. More details to add.

Part 4

To first posting in this series

Invalid Car 4mm Scale Model - Part 2

2010-07-13T06:11:00.000-07:00

Bodywork is made from four pieces of balsa wood; lower body, canopy and two windscreen side struts. Carving was achieved with glasspaper, files and knife. The cockpit and rear window apertures were first drilled and then finished off with file and chisel. White wood primer is applied overall.

The model is 39mm long (117 inches at 12 inches to the foot) and scaled by reducing a photo of the real car.

The chair was left over from a coach kit. It was installed in the car after painting the cockpit in the characteristic sky blue paint and before fitting of the windscreen struts.

Bodywork looks quite rough in this oversize photo. Looks acceptable at normal viewing. A lot more detailing to be applied.

Part 3

To first posting in this series

Invalid Car 4mm Scale Model - Part 1

2010-07-12T03:21:00.000-07:00

In 1964 Broad Clyst station in Devon on the Waterloo-Exeter mainline was a loading/dispatch point for invalid cars. They were carried on open Lowfit wagons and would have been a common site on the main line. I have a photo of a mixed freight train (1962) with one lonely invalid car, probably on its way back to the factory for repair as the train is travelling towards Broad Clyst on the down line in Somerset . This train I can re-create in 00 gauge but I need an invalid car.

There were many manufacturers and styles of invalid car over the years. I tried tracing the car manufacturer from the Broad Clyst area with a view to identifying the actual 1960s car model, but to no avail.

After close examination of railway photographs, showing the car in the distance, I have chosen the AC model from 1965 as this car had a distinctive curved underbody at the front, which is visible in railway photographs of the period.

Trawling across the Internet revealed a number of good images. Here are two:
invalid carriage register and flickr.

The bodywork of my model will be carved from balsa wood.

Part 2

Big Game Hunting

2010-07-09T13:15:00.000-07:00

Just for the record, this is a follow up to my previous post 'A Green and Pleasant Land'. At the fourth attempt Sir Lamiel was bagged after a two day hunt and probably 5km of walking in all. Now this may not be the best portrait of Sir Lamiel you have seen but the setting is iconic, being the gateway to the west on the Waterloo-Exeter mainline at Battledown Flyover, except in this view we are looking east towards Basingstoke. The flyover is lit by a setting sun low in the sky, which has also cast this side of the engine in shade.

The rear view of the engine was deliberate since it complements a front view I published on my website some time ago. Shame about the first coach being a diesel engine and not a MKI carriage.

A Green and Pleasant Land

2010-07-03T13:19:00.000-07:00

The morning excursion to photograph N15 King Arthur class Sir Lamiel fronting the 'Swanage Belle' resulted in a less than ideal photograph for reasons I'll not go into. No matter, as there was a second chance to photograph it on its return to Waterloo in the evening.

About 20 minutes before the evening train was due to pass I reached my isolated vantage point next to the Exeter-Waterloo main line. It was a wonderful warm summers evening in the English countryside. Not a soul in sight. Just the sound of nature interrupted now and then by distant motor cars and aeroplanes. Further up the field a couple of rabbits stood erect watching my every move.

Camera was set up on tripod and test shots made of the railway line where the train would pass. There was even an opportunity to snap one of those modern sausage shaped, graffiti painted diesel thingies - just so I could be sure the real railway engine (steam) would be framed nicely when it arrived.

With time to spare (Sir Lamiel was running late) the sights of the countryside were absorbed. The setting sun casts its rays across the landscape behind me highlighting the trees and distant buildings. I spun the camera around and snapped the scene. A green and pleasant land indeed.

Eventually the distinctive beat of a steam train could be heard and in no time Sir Lamiel was upon me, travelling at considerable speed to make up for lost time. With my heart beginning to race I pressed the button. The LCD viewing screen went black, the lens retracted into the body and the lens cover closed. Why oh why is the power button placed right next to the shutter button! With tail between my legs I headed for home. Thankfully, Sir Lamiel returns in a weeks time. Third time lucky?

Cheating or Inspiring?

2010-06-16T08:02:00.000-07:00

Invariably a model railway photograph includes the real-world muselling into the background where the model does not reach. It might be a door to the room, window, clutter, or just plain walls. But, with modern digital photography and pc software all that can replaced by stitching a photo of the real landscape into the model photo.

Now this gives a completely different look to the model railway that is not there in reality. It can make the model layout look far more photogenic and extensive than it really is. Is this cheating?

I think not because the finescale modeller's goal is to achieve a scene that looks realistic. However, space is the limitation. Editing a model photo to add the distant landscape results in a picture that does fulfill the dream and can be quite uplifting.

Have a look at Ashprington Road to see what I mean.

Through The Looking Glass

2010-06-11T11:46:00.000-07:00

Misterton was an end to end layout with an operating area on the 'back side' and viewing area on the 'front side'. After its conversion to an oval layout the operating side also became the viewing side. Whilst it is possible to crawl underneath to the original viewing side the gap there is really too narrow for comfortable viewing. That's a shame because there are interesting views there that are rarely seen.

A trip to Ikea today to buy a couple of cheap mirrors (£5.99 each) to place on the wall and now we can appreciate the views from the other side of the railway line. OK, so the frames are unsightly and the join more so but they can be blended into the wall with a coat of blue paint.

You know the funny thing about this is that when you are standing in the railway room looking at the layout or operating the trains your mind does not notice things like that, nor the clutter elsewhere in the room.

If we get down at eye level the scene really takes on a new dimension. This photo was taken looking into the mirror. Apart from seeing a side of the station building that is normally hidden we also see across the void of the operating area to the scenic section on the other side of the oval! The landscape and backscene there now become the backscene for this view!

It's magical and bizarre like "Through the Looking-Glass, and What Alice Found There".

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 6 (It's Not a Perfect World)

2010-05-31T04:02:00.000-07:00

The same method of hand painting as described in Part 3 was used for the green sides but the paint is 'Phoenix Precision' instead of 'Humbrol' that was used on the roof. The former seems to dry more quickly making it less easy to work so, I have ended up with a slightly more uneven finish than the roof.

Lettering is 'Pressfix'. The numbers in particular are minuscule and each is applied individually with the aid of a scalpel and magnifying glass. A coat of matt varnish protects lettering from being rubbed away with handling.

Comparison with the prototype reveals some inaccuracies. For example, the grab handles should be shaped ']' and the body sides should hide more of the solebars. There is also a raft of other very small details such as brackets and panel joins on the prototype that have not been modelled.

How far do you go with these fine details? I'm pragmatic about this. My aim is to create an impression of the period I'm modelling rather than to count every rivet.

These have been the most complex and time consuming kits that I have built. Turning flat metal into a 3-dimensional model by hand is nothing short of remarkable, even if I say so myself. The objective for me however, was not to build a kit but to create a representative 'Atlantic Coast Express' train. So far I have the Bulleid Merchant Navy locomotive, the first three coaches comprising the Ilfracombe set and now the restaurant buffet set. I need another 4 (Backmann) coaches to complete the ACE in its shortest form as it travelled west through Crewkerne in the early 1960s.

Bulleid Restaurant/ Buffet Build - Part 1

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 5 (Fishing Tales)

2010-05-28T13:13:00.000-07:00

18 tables, 18 table lamps and 54 chairs. That's what needed to be formed, assembled and painted to populate the restaurant coach.

Whilst tables and chairs were in the 'Comet Models' kit, the lamps were not . The only examples I found from the trade were not representative so, I had to find some way of making them from scratch, especially the lamp shade.

After much head scratching I stumbled upon a box of fishing line lead weights amongst my stock of modelling oddments. These are a few millimeters diameter with a slit into which the fishing line is placed. The lead is then pinched to hold fast to the line.

The unkind close up photo. is of a table and lamp that is only about 15mm tall overall. You can see the lamp stand is brass wire. The lead weight (painted white) is attached as described above with a drop of superglue to stop it slipping off. The good thing about this approach is the lead can be pressed into various lamp shade shapes by pinching with a pair of pliers.

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 6

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 1

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 4 (Doll's house modelling)

2010-05-26T10:29:00.001-07:00

Do not know for sure whether this colour scheme is valid- brown wood panelling, white laminate counter and tables with red chairs. The MRC magazine for November 1980 has very detailed plans of the interior, down to location of the refridgerator for example, but no interior colour scheme is defined.

Building the interior felt like fitting out a doll's house! But, there is no point going overboard with detail as little can be seen from outside the coach, especially as windows at the kitchen end are 'frosted'.

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 5

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 1

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 3 (Read the Instructions!)

2010-05-25T08:48:00.000-07:00

I broke one of my golden rules - read all the instructions before proceeding. Having assembled all the parts I turned to the guidance notes on livery paint details and read that the grab handles are fitted after painting! Completely logical with hindsight as they are naturally coloured brass. I'll need to either scratch off the paint or overpaint with a brass colour.

In preparation for painting, flux, finger prints and filings were removed with 'cif' kitchen cleaner applied with a tooth brush. The instructions said 'and then wash in a weak vinegar solution', which of course I did not read until too late.

Bodywork, roof and underframe were sprayed with grey car primer and then the underframe sprayed black. Bogies, end panels and roof were painted by hand. Which leaves the sides. It is recommended to spray but past experience on other kits resulted in more of a hammer finish than smooth grain so, I'm favouring hand painting. I have no idea the best way to achieve this so I practiced on the roof. The enamel paint was slightly diluted with white spirit, the brush fully loaded and paint applied in the same direction across the length of the roof. This left a reasonable smooth finish but with some streaking. With the paint just touch dry the paint was burnished with a dry finger and cotton cloth. This blended the streaks into the paint leaving a consistent and pleasing finish.

Before painting the sides I have decided to assemble the interior so that handling during this stage can proceed without potential damage to the sides top coat paint. The photo shows the body sides in grey primer.

Bullied restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 4

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 1

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 2 (Why do I do this?)

2010-05-22T08:50:00.000-07:00

And here's the kitchen/buffet coach! Buffet area is behind the four windows at the far end. The restaurant coach couples to this end. Neither coach, by design, have buffers on the mating ends.

Lessons learned from the restaurant coach assembly made this one a little more straight forward, albeit taking just as long to build with its own set of problems along the way. Most notable was fitting of the large gas cylinder to the underframe - it was missing from the kit. I have a feeling this was intended. I fabricated one quite easily from a piece of hollow plastic tube with the ends moulded from car body filler.

I need to source some hook and bar couplings, preferably Backmann as the passenger coaches used in the train are by that supplier. Whilst I have been following auction lots on Ebay to tell you the truth they are about the same price as those from my local model shop so, I'll probably get them there and at the same time peruse all the other stuff in the shop - Nothing beats seeing things in reality!

I have been evaluating my attitude to kit building. Do I gain pleasure from the craft itself, or is it just a means to an end? I have no doubt that had these coaches been available off the shelf from Bachmann etc. then I would have purchased since i'm impatient to see and run my complete ACE. Never the less I am proud of my achievements thus far with the kits and the work has given me greater insight into the design and details of Bulleid's coaches that I would not otherwise have gained. This all helps to complete a mental picture of what railway travel was like as we watch our trains chase their tails around an oval of track.

Next stage is painting. I'll do that before building the interior details.

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 3

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet - Part 1

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 1 (Here we go!)

2010-05-19T00:31:00.000-07:00

This is the Comet Models kit I'm assembling. It is an expensive but well designed and engineered kit. Assembly is not for the feint hearted. You need excellent eyesight (or in my case a magnifying glass) and manual dexterity in addition to appropriate tools.

For the period modeller it is imperative that photographs and articles are available to check against. In particular, I found the very detailed scale drawings of the prototype in MRC Nov 1980 very helpful to correct at least one inaccuracy in the manufacturers instructions, i.e. battery box position. Or, did MRC get it wrong? None of the prototypes survived into preservation so there is not one to see in reality.

The supplied instructions are quite good except the solebar assembly drawing is confusing causing me to fit them the wrong way around! Fortunately it is a soldered section so just sweating the joints enabled disassembly without damage. With the solebars fitted correctly the bogies then interfered with them, which was easily remedied by standing them off with extra small plates soldered to the chassis where they pivot.

It is a heavy beast, being all metal construction, as heavy as a locomotive. It would be lighter for the pulling locomotive if the whitemetal components were manufactured as plastic mouldings.

The roof, body, chassis and bogies will be disassembled for painting individually. But first I'll build the kitchen/buffet coach for this two coach set used on the 'Atlantic Coast Express'.

Oh, by the way, about 3 days solid work to get this far in the assembly.

Bulleid Restaurant/Buffet Build - Part 2

Expo EM 2010 - Bracknell

2010-05-15T05:57:00.000-07:00

I arrived early to bag a car parking space but need not have worried. This was a relatively small, specialist exhibition organised by the EM gauge society to display and promote EM gauge railway modelling, i.e. 4mm scale, 18.2mm track gauge. The number of visitors on the first morning could best be described as 'comfortable' allowing everyone space to get close to the exhibits. The quality of layouts were on par with those you would see at any club exhibition that are open to all modelling scales.

What sets this one apart from others is the plethora of small traders selling all manner of locomotive and rolling stock components and scenic items for the scale modelling enthusiast. It was quiet overwhelming, boxes and boxes stuffed with small pastic bags containing obscure components you never thought you needed. I felt that if I did not buy something then I may never find such things again - so I picked up some tail lamps to place on the last coach/wagon of my trains.

My main reason for visiting was to purchase from one of these traders the Comet Models Bulleid rebuilt restaurant and buffet coach kits for my 'Atlantic Coast Express' that I am putting together. The picture here is of the contents from the restaurant coach kit. Assembly is going to be quite a challenge for me. You'll be able to follow my progress through this Blog.

Backscenes at Hewish Gates

2010-05-01T00:58:00.000-07:00

I'm a late-comer to the current practice of many who now create backscenes from photographs. In the old days I had a go at painting backscenes or using Peco art backscenes - was not too impressed, so I reverted to just sky blue paint. Nothing could have prepared me for the amazing effect of using photographs of the real location. They add atmosphere and depth to the model on a scale I did not expect.

I created a panorama of stitched photos in Photoshop. Not all the scene is from one contiguous location. The landscape is varied enough that different areas can be stitched together to blend with the foreground model landscape.

The sky was cut out of the panorama and replaced with a sky blue layer, only because I felt the cloud formations would be a distraction from the model. Brightness and Saturation levels were adjusted negatively to produce toned down colours representative of the distant landscape. The scene was then cut into A4 chunks and printed. Each A4 is stuck to the next with double sided tape and this is stuck to the backboard.

New Windows for R226

2010-04-29T08:32:00.000-07:00

The Triang R226 SR bogie utility van is fitted as standard with ill fitting window glass that is screen printed with white security bars. I converted my model using 'South Eastern Finecast' flush-glaze windows (SE63). The flush-glaze are embossed and fit snugly into the window recess from the rear. However, they do not carry the security bars so typical of the prototype.

My research into the design of the bars lead me to a preserved van on the Bluebell Railway. The bars are fitted inside and comprise three horizontal and four vertical bars. I created the security bars in Photoshop and printed using an inkjet printer on transparent film, thus creating a printed window glass. The bars are 1 pixel wide. I could not determine the bar colour from available photos so opted for the same colour as the body - green.

Three attempts to assemble bars and windows to the van before finding the best technique that does not result in liquid glue residue 'frosting' the glass. Fortunately, there are sufficient flush-glaze spares supplied in the pack to cover for failures. The solution was to use tape instead of glue, as follows.

Cut out each flush-glaze window from the strip leaving flanges on all four sides. The bars-glass is stuck to the rear flanges of the flush-glaze using strips of double sided tape This now looks like double glazing with the bars sitting back from the front glass. More tape is stuck to the otherside of the flanges and the assembled window offered up to the recess and pressed in place.

Misterton in 3D - Preview

2010-04-03T00:43:00.000-07:00

A portfolio of 3D images will be available to view during June on my model railway web site (link shown right). Make a date in your diary.

You need red & green or red & blue 3d glasses with the red covering your left eye to view these images in amazing 3D! Sit back about 0.5m and let your eyes adjust.

ACE Coach Roof Destination Boards - Update

2010-02-16T06:21:00.000-08:00

My railway room is not the most comfortable of places at the best of times and this very cold weather does not inspire me to go there often. (Even though its continuous summer time on the model railway!) Spending an hour or so once a week or so running the trains against the timetable allows me to switch off from the pressure of modern life but modelling activities there in cold winter months is virtually a no-no, which is why blog postings have been sparse recently.

Anyway, that's not what this posting is about. My continued search for the 'truth' about the style, lettering and use of Bulleid carriage roof destination boards for the ACE has uncovered some photographs. The first shows the words "THE ATLANTIC COAST EXPRESS" on a board positioned in the second 'slot' thus confirming use of the word 'The'. (The first 'slot' contained no board at all). The coach was part of the Ilfracombe section of the UP ACE on its way to Exeter Central. (page 38 in Stephen Austin's book Portrait of the Atlantic Coast Express). The second photo shows a "WATERLOO WEYMOUTH" board - not for the ACE, but no reason to assume an ACE destination board would be styled different. Note that the character spacing is spread so the entire board is filled with text and the only separator between the words is a space.

ACE Coach Roof Destination Board

2009-12-21T06:07:00.000-08:00

I'm in the process of assembling a representative ACE train with Merchant Navy Pacific and Bachmann Bulleid coaching stock and wanted to add roof destination boards to the coaches. Each coach has provision for four boards, two each side positioned centrally. My research thus far has been inconclusive. I have the impression that there was no hard and fast rules on the use of ACE roof destination boards. Train images show either two boards side by side, one board or none at all!

The boards have straw lettering on a dark green background.

Legends:

"ATLANTIC COAST EXPRESS" either on one board or across two boards, possibly with the word THE preceding ATLANTIC.
"WATERLOO TO ILFRACOMBE" and the other destinations BUDE, TORRINGTON, PADSTOW, PLYMOUTH, EXETER CENTRAL and WEST OF ENGLAND. The latter for the East Devon destinations of Seaton, Sidmouth and Exmouth.

I have surveyed hundreds of southern train images but yet to find an ACE showing any of the boards with discernible lettering. I am making my best guess as to what to place where until a photo turns up.

In 4mm scale I made boards using MS Word and the font Vrinda 8pt. Printed on sticky back labels 43mm x 2.5mm. Two strips of 1mm high x 1mm thick plastic card were applied to the sticky side top of board for rigidity. The board is positioned on the coach roof between the board end brackets and pressed onto the rain gutter where it is held by the label glue showing on the bottom of the board. The board can be easily removed when the coaches are used on other duties and reapplied when forming the ACE, so long as the stickness lasts.

What it was like to travel on the ACE

2009-12-05T07:31:00.000-08:00

Came across an excellent personal acount of what it was like to travel on the ACE in the 1960s.

You can really picture what it was like from the authors descriptive text. With the eventual demise of travelling by train, brought about by the greater convenience of road travel, the author finishes by recounting early experiences of the journey by car instead of train - quite a contrast!

Catch The Bus Part 4 (Final)

2009-10-10T09:26:00.000-07:00

Finished the bus today! Just a week of spare time required, much of which was spent researching the prototype to ensure the model finish looked authentic.

Easy to assemble and my initial fears about assembling the glazing panels was unfounded. Very pleased with the outcome.

For the full story:
Catch The Bus - Part 1

You can now see the bus and read my construction article by visiting my model railway.

Catch The Bus Part 3

2009-10-07T03:52:00.000-07:00

The difference between a toy bus and a bus model appreciated by adults is more than how it looks. It is about its connection with the real bus in its place and time.

I am in the process of making a model bus kit. When it is finished it shall be placed at Misterton station on my model railway as though it was picking up or dropping down passengers at a bus stop.

I have to hand a number of photographs of the real bus and have poured over these to pick up details that need to be added or adjusted on the model and its intended location. Three issues about the real bus and its location have arisen so far and these are:

What does the back of the bus look like? (Photographers have focused only on a view from the front).
Did a Conductor accompany the Driver and what were their uniforms
What did a Crewkerne bus stop look like in the 1960s?

To help find answers my research lead me to the book, Somerset's Buses - The story of Hutchings & Cornelius and Safeway Services by Laurie James. First plan was to visit the local library to see if they could obtain it as I knew such a specialist publication was unlikely to be on the shelf. The response was, "The county does not have it and a nationwide search of libraries would be needed and no, we don't know how long it would take". My next plan was to buy the book and so I turned to the Internet and a search uncovered several second hand copies being sold by individuals on the Amazon web site. I bought the £12.99 book for £3.25 + postage. It was delivered in 2 days and frankly the book looks brand new - no defects at all.

Eagerly I thumbed through the book for the answers to my questions. There on page 92 was the only picture of 200 APB and no, it was a full frontal! Without a rear view of the bus to hand I will have to be guided by the relief detail shown on the model.

My answer to the Conductor issue was answered though with a photo of both driver and conductress in full 1960s regalia - and even their names! So I can now add an authentic driver and conductress to the bus - You can see with research how the bus begins to tell its own story and gives rise to interesting conversation when showing the model to others.

With regard to a bus stop sign. One picture showed a 1950's bus stop at Yeovil. The pole has alternate black and white banding with a rectangular sign at the top depicting the towns and villages on the route.

Catch The Bus - Part4

Catch The Bus - Part 1

Catch The Bus Part 2

2009-10-02T04:22:00.000-07:00

My TiNY bus - Burlingham B44F 200 APB, released this month by TiNy Bus & Coach Kits arrived safely by post today. The supplier kept me informed about my order status throughout and delivered in good time.

Very well packed in a sturdy, nicely labelled cardboard box. Upon opening I was both surprised and pleased by the small number of parts required to construct the bus.

The body shell is one piece as is the finely detailed interior. Wheels, axles and a few other fitments together with glazing panels complete the kit. Instructions are also supplied. The glazing panels fill me with dread as they could be the most difficult/fiddly part of the build.

Anyway, first job is to paint the parts, inside and out before assembly. So, I'm now off to research and source the paint colour.

Catch The Bus - Part 3

Catch The Bus - Part 1

Model Train Smoke

2009-09-20T04:42:00.000-07:00

I just happened to have access to a disco fog machine. This is quite a large black box with a liquid reservoir, jet outlet and remote control. (Cost about £30).

I set it up behind Crewkerne tunnel mouth on my model railway. Because of its size it had to be setback quite some way. A large bore cardboard tube was used to funnel the 'fog' into the back of the tunnel mouth.

There is a time lag between operating the remote and the 'fog' being jetted so, the trick is to work out when to hit the remote as the train approaches the tunnel exit. I ran a freight train around the circuit, hit the remote to give a short burst and a bellow of smoke came out of the tunnel with the train bursting through it.

The unexpected and amazing effect was that as the train came out of the tunnel it pulled the smoke with it! The plume clung to the engine rolling over the top and sides as though it came out of the engine chimney. The smoke continued to cling to the freight wagons and after the train passed by the smoke remnants drifted across the tracks - just like a real train.

The whole sequence was captured on a camcorder and this will feature in a short movie to be added to my movie portfolio on my model railway web site soon.

Maplin Steam Engine Sound Generator (MK134) Review

2009-08-15T09:17:00.000-07:00

Those familiar with my main model railway web site will know that I use recorded engine sounds played from a PC to accompany my model train train movements. This is fine for trains starting off or in full motion but shunting is another matter. Shunting engines move very slowly with frequent stops and starts. So, this inexpensive electronics kit from Maplin provides an answer.

The generator has an on/off switch, volume, speed and whistle controls. It is powered from a 9V battery, but could be powered from an AC to DC adaptor up to 12V easily.

When switched on and the volume turned off a continuous hissing sound is still heard, reminiscent of a stationary engine leaking steam. As the volume is increased we hear the beat of the engine in motion and adjusting the speed control we can emulate the speed of the engine from a crawl to the fastest express.

A more 'basey' sound can be achieved by placing the speaker at the end of a long cardoard tube (mine is about 3 feet) and baffling the rear of the speaker with a pair of socks - one inside the other placed over the rear.

The steam sound is realistic and works well for the shunting movements I intended it for.

The Whistle on the other hand is not realistic. It lacks the sound of the steam rush of a real locomotive whistle. It sounds electronic - too pure.

The Kit

The instructions are in the step-by-step pictorial format. There is scant textual information for the uninitiated about how to tackle an electronics assembly.

Component values or identities are either colour coded or stamped on the body with a very small number.

Some of the components, especially resistors cover up their circuit number on the PCB (printed circuit board). So, if you put one in the wrong place and need to remove it you have to work out from the supplied circuit diagram and the track runs on the PCB which one it is!

Four pins are supplied which are soldered to the battery connector and speaker connection points on the PCB and then the battery and speaker wires soldered to them. These are pointless and fiddly - throw them away and wire the cables directly to the PCB.

As with all electronics, if it don't work when you switch it on then you are pretty much stuffed without electronics technical knowledge and diagnostic equipment. All you can do is check the components were fitted in the right place, all the wires are firmly soldered to the PCB pads and there are no solder bridges between components where not meant to be.

Battery not supplied. Use a new one, not one previously used.

Kit Assembly Rating 1-5 (5 easy, 1 difficult)

Experienced in electronics assembly with understanding how it works: 5
Have built electronics successfully before but not knowledgeable in how it works: 4
Never built an electronics kit but have used a soldering iron: 3
No previous experience whatsoever: 2 (give it a go anyway)

Tips

1. Follow the step-by-step instructions precisely. Note the colour code provided for resistor colour banding value identity.
2. Having pushed a component through the pcb splay out its legs so it does not fall out when turning the assembly over.
3. Apply the soldering iron to the component leg and its PCB pad then about 1 second later apply the solder to the joint side furthest from the soldering iron - not to the bit of the iron.
4. Solder in place the group of components from a step of the instruction and cut their leads short before moving onto the next step.
5. Use a magnifying glass to check the solder joints are shiny, cover the PCB hole and not bridging other component leads where not meant to.

Tools Required

Essential: Small electrical wire cutters, soldering iron with fine point, electrical fluxed solder.
Helpful: Small electrical pliers, magnifying glass, solder removal pump or copper braided wick.
If it don't work: Multi-meter, oscilloscope.

Taking Railway Modelling to the Next Level

2009-07-26T03:17:00.000-07:00

Railway books are a great inspiration and aid for modelling an authentic railway scene. But it was only recently that I discovered a new aspect to the hobby, which I shall call 'Inspired Modelling'.

This is about emulating a photograph of the prototype train and period shown in a railway book by re-creating the scene on the model railway and then taking a photograph of it. Post processing the image to add effects such as steam and smoke with the aim of getting as close as possible to the book photograph.

The outcome is truly staggering. My wife thought I had scanned the book photograph! that's how realistic the model image is that I achieved.

It is only with the advent of finely detailed ready to run railway models from the trade, versatile low cost digital cameras with macro facilty and photo editing software that has enabled us to do this.

One of the model photos I created was based on that taken of the prototype by the famous railway photographer Ivo Peters. When I look at my image I feel as though I had stepped back in time and became Ivo Peters at the moment he snapped his image.

There are some discrepencies between the two photographs especially when it comes to railway furniture or landscape in the prototype photograph that does not exist on the model railway. But it is close enough to be a very rewarding experience and new extension of the hobby.

My 'Inspired Modelling' photos are viewable only for a few months during summer months in the 'Special Features' section of my website, accessible from the web link in this article.

Loneliness of the Line Side Photographer

2009-07-05T05:04:00.000-07:00

About half-hour before the train is due I set out alone across lanes and fields to my selected vantage point. Today my path was laid out before me by well-worn tractor tracks through a wheat field. Following these across the baked soil the sight of Battledown Flyover (The Gateway to the West) peeked through gaps in the tree lined edge to the field. Across the boundary to the next wheat field and the full majesty of this famous bridge could be seen.

Now to find my vantage point. Should I set up the tripod in the middle of this field, near the old LSWR railway foot crossing or somewhere close to the bridge? With 15 minutes to go another enthusiast is seen some way off with tripod in arm treading the path to the foot crossing. I followed in his wake, but upon reaching the crossing he was long gone, probably found a hidden spot on the other side of the track ready to pounce on his prey.

In the distance near the bridge I spied a gap in the full-grown line side hedge. Aiming straight for it I hoped the tall vegetation of mid summer would not obscure the view. Now to hack through 1.5m tall grass to reach the wire fence. Safely positioned on my perch the tripod was set up on a slight knoll next to the wire. Some practice shots with the digicam secured the scene, nicely framed by bridge, tree and line side equipment cabinet.

Now the waiting game. A chance to take in the peace of the countryside. Hover flies and butterflies mingled with the tall cream coloured grasses around me. The silence broken only by song birds. However, a rustle in the grass gave away the arrival of another approaching enthusiast, who was armed with two tripods and cameras, putting my flimsy tripod and insignificant compact camera to shame. But, I had bagged the best spot and he was resigned to a position further back out of site of the rails.

The tell tale sign of smoke plume rising from an approaching steam train mixed with cumulus cloud formations on the horizon signaled the moment to get on the shutter. Within seconds, it seemed, the train burst forth from under the bridge like thousands of its peers 50 years and more ago. The thunder of the wheels and rhythm of the exhaust filled the scene. Snap - and the picture is taken. The train gone as quickly as it arrived. Only an expanding trail of grey white smoke and a sooty odour lingered across the scene.

An exchange of experiences of the shoot and chat on a common railway interest with my fellow enthusiast ended the episode. Everyone I have ever met on these photographic expeditions have a happy demeanor and are willing communicators, free in their imparting of knowledge about the subject. A friendly farewell and we go our separate ways to return home and process our treasured snaps. In my case within an hour the photo was published on my web site.

Loneliness of the line side photographer? Not a bit of it.

See my photo from this shoot. Tangmere at Battledown Flyover - Picture #4.

Find out when a steam train is due near you this year.

1960s Atlantic Coast Express (ACE) Summer Train Formation

2009-06-20T05:59:00.000-07:00

The ACE departed Waterloo at 11am until the final run of this named train on September 5th 1964. Whilst the destination of the engine was Exeter coaches ended their journey at either Ilfracombe, Plymouth, Torrington, Padstow, Bude, Sidmouth, Exmouth, Exeter or Seaton (the Seaton coach was discontinued after 1957) . The east Devon and Exeter coaches were taken off at Salisbury to continue the journey behind a Salisbury engine. In summer, coaches were split between the 11 am and an extra 11.05am service, e.g. for Plymouth, Padstow and Bude.

The composition of the ACE was complex and varied depending on the time of year and passenger demand for the service. My interest is the early 1960s and the train as it would have been seen running through Somerset to and from the west.

A representative makeup of the down 11.am ACE .
14th July 1962 as shown in 'Portrait of the Atlantic Coast Express' by Stephen Austen:

Acceptable coaches are Bullied 63' or BR MK1 or a mixture of both for later years .

1. Merchant Navy class engine
2. Brake (BSK) - Ilfracombe
3. Composite Corridor (CK) - Ilfracombe
4. Brake (BSK) - Ilfracombe
5. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Torrington
6. Restaurant 2nd (RS)
7. Kitchen Buffet (KB)
8. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Padstow
9. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Bude
10. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Plymouth
11. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Exmouth (Detached at Salisbury)
12. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Sidmouth (Detached at Salisbury)
13. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Exeter (Detached at Salisbury)

Up ACE departing Exeter Central 12.30pm.

1. Merchant Navy class engine
2. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Padstow
3. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Bude
4. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Plymouth
5. Restaurant 2nd (RS)
6. Kitchen Buffet (KB)
7. Brake (BSK) - Ilfracombe
8. Composite Corridor (CK) - Ilfracombe
9. Brake (BSK) - Ilfracombe
10. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Torrington
11. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Exmouth
12. Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Sidmouth

00 gauge (4mm scale) Model Sources:

Merchant Navy Class Engine - Hornby
MK1 Brake (BSK) - Bachmann, Lima
MK1 Composite Corridor - Bachmann, Lima
Restaurant - Bachmann, Lima
Buffet MK1 - Hornby, Bachmann
MK1 Brake Composite Corridor (BCK) - Bachmann, Lima
Bullied 63' composite corridor and 2nd Brake Corridor/Open - Bachmann

No one produces a RTR (ready to run) Bullied BCK but the Bachmann 2nd Brake Corridor/Open is a close match and could be converted by applying the yellow 1st Class banding above the two windows nearest the guard/luggage area - post 1963 era, or a yellow 1 (one) on the coach door - before 1963, which is also relavant post 1963.

How to be a Great Ebay Seller

2009-06-08T13:25:00.000-07:00

The average Ebay Seller from my experience as a Bidder show very little customer care. Zero communication, late shipping and even shipping to the wrong customer is what winning Bidders can expect at some point. The trouble is many Ebay Sellers are not in business for a living. If they were they would soon realise that customer care is of paramount importance in order to survive. But, the point is they are handling a commercial transaction, whether trading once or frequently and should always give the customer due care and attention.

1. In your listing always describe the product condition, declaring any defects present, and use a decent camera capable of close up shots for smaller items.

2. Soon after the auction closes (I mean within minutes) send your Ebay invoice to the winning Bidder. Include a congratulatory message. Reiterate your payment terms and state where you will be sending the item when payment has cleared.

3. Send a reminder if payment has not been received within the expected timeframe. For PayPal transactions send a reminder a few days before your deadline with an explanation of what measures you will be taking if payment is not received by the due date.

4. If they are paying by cheque notify them when you have received it. If they paid instantly via PayPal confirm that payment has been received and state when you will be sending the item. Ship as soon as practical after payment has cleared.

5. Use sensible packaging to protect the item and include a print of the order details in the package.

6. Where you have multiple items to ship to different customers within the same time frame take care not to mix up the orders. Carry out all paperwork and packing for one customer before moving onto the next.

7. Always leave feedback after you have shipped the product taking care to leave the right feedback for each customer.

With these measures you should have happy customers and your feedback will remain positive.

Catch The Bus - Part 1

2009-06-03T07:42:00.000-07:00

I have been searching for a model bus that fits the place and period of my model railway and I think I have found it. First I had to find out which bus service operated in Crewkerne in the 1960s and a route that included the station, because it is at the station I want to position the bus.

The bus service that fits the bill was Safeway Services of South Petherton and the bus I fancied is the AEC Reliance with Burlingham bodywork, registration 200APB. Pictures shown on the web site about Safeway Services placed this bus in the early 1960s and in fact it eventually went into preservation in the 1990s and can be still seen at bus shows today.

I spent a long time searching for an 'off the shelf' Safeway Services model bus of the 1960s to no avail until I came across TiNY Bus & Coach Kits who are planning to introduce a 4mm scale kit of this very bus during 2009. (What a coincidence!) Tiny responded very quickly to my email about its availability and price. It is planned to be available later this year.

I will need to supply my own decals for the model, not an easy thing to make. I started looking into what company logo Safeway had used on this bus in the 1960s. Photos of the bus from that period show an indistinct shield emblem that did not seem to match other Safeway logos from later years. It was only after researching the bus history that it dawned on me what was going on. This bus was originally owned by the bus company Safeguard Coaches of Guildford but was sold to Safeway in 1962. Safeguard had a shield type emblem and what I think Safeway initially did was paint over name details on the shield, which is why the shield in the Safeway pictures looks blocky. I still don't know what logo they applied to the bus before 1965 but I came across another photo of the bus from the period that shows no logo at all! So that could be a blessing for me as I will not need to create an intricate logo for the side of the bus.

Catch The Bus - Part 2